Sketchup For Landscape Design

This year, I started designing with Pro Landscape design software and Sketchup . Pro Landscape is an excellent program for creating 2d and photo-realistic designs. While Pro Landscape can be used for creating 3d designs, it requires significant re-working of the Planner design to achieve a viable design. The transfer from 2d to 3d is not seamless.  The amount of work required to reach an acceptable 3d design does not seem worth it at this point.

Though it is possible to create photo-realistic designs from digital photographs. It is not possible to create these designs starting with previously created 2d or 3d design.  I believe Landscape Pro needs to add to its training videos.  At this point they provide only remedial training via videos.

The following is a sampling of my Pro Landscape designs in the program's Planner and Image Editor modes:

Landscape Design in Grand Rapids, MI
Landscape Pro Planner

Landscape Design - Grand Rapids, MI - Landscape Pro Planner

Landscape Design Alt. - Grand Rapids, MI
Pro Landscape Planner enables user to choose among several design styles rapidly by selecting an button on the screen.

Driveway Island Landscape Design - Richland, MI -
Pro Landscape Design - Photo Realistic Image Editor

Asian Inspired Relaxation Garden - Holland, MI
Pro Landscape Design - Photo Realistic Image Editor

Sketchup, on the other hand, is intuitive and highly useful for creating 2d, 3d designs and walk-throughs and photo-realistic pictures. There is no need to switch between 2d and 3d modes. 2d designs can be transformed into 3d designs using simple actions. Really getting to realistic looking designs takes a lot of practice and time, but it's worth it. Photo-realistic pictures can be shot from within the design by adjusting the view of the built-in camera. This program is made easier because it is an open source program used by thousands of professional architects, landscape and interior designers, engineers, artists, etc. constantly tweaking and adding to available models.  These models can be submitted to Sketchup and integrated into the designs of other users.  Check out some of my new Sketchup landscape designs:

Outdoor Kitchen and Living Space in Dowagiac, MI

Outdoor Kitchen Side View - Sketchup

For professional landscape design services, 
call Brent Langley at (616) 328-3258.

Outdoor Kitchen - Sketchup

Landscape Design - Holland, MI
Sketchup Camera Top View 

How To Build Dry Stacked Natural Stone Retaining Walls

Dry Stacked Natural Stone Retaining Walls

Purchasing Your Boulders/Wall Stone: 

When looking for natural stone for your future retaining wall, first search for “gravel pits” in your area. Because they are in the excavation business, they have access to the many boulders buried in their pits, often setting them aside for sale to landscapers (or other consumers in the know). Keep in mind, however, the machines they use are extremely large and therefore unfit for loading boulders into your truck or trailer. Because of this, you will find it necessary to either load them by hand (which can be very difficult because of their shear weight and awkwardness) or you will need to rent a small loader.  If you rent a loader to load the boulders, you will have to unload them by hand at the jobsite. This too can be difficult if you do not have a dump truck or trailer. However, with patience and the proper tools, you can do it this way and save yourself a lot of money. 

Stone Yards are another option. These are very popular for several reasons: First, they can save you a lot of time and labor. Stone yards can load the boulders for you if you have an open-bed vehicle. Also, stone yards generally offer delivery. Second, stone yards have access to a wide selection of stone from all over the country. The best yards can obtain stone from all over the world. However, with selection comes increased price. Stone yards sell stone significantly higher than gravel pits. They probably purchase their boulders from gravel pits and must recover the cost of shipping the stone from the pit to their own site. Not a cheap thing to do.

Depending on your location, you may be able to save even more money by scamming fieldstone from fields in the area. Especially keep in mind any farms or ranches you may have seen while driving around lately. Farmers often have large piles of boulders moved aside while preparing their fields for planting. Before you make off with any boulders, make sure you get permission from the owner of the property from which you intend to "pilfer".

Choosing the Right Stone For Your Dry Stacked Stone Wall Project:

Types of Natural Stone Available for Retaining Walls
Weight and Dimension:

It is essential, when choosing your rocks, to keep a few things in mind. You may think my first recommendation is obvious, but it must be said. It is easy to find boulders you love at the stone yard only to discover when you get them to your site you can’t budge them. So, plan ahead. Know how you intend to manipulate your boulders once they’re home. Don’t choose boulders that you cannot move. That does not mean you must be able to pick them up. However, you must determine your ability to access and use the tools necessary for the project. (I will take you through some of the many options available, and how to utilize those later).

Because stone density varies due to composition, it is impossible to give you precise weights per boulder or square face foot. Nevertheless, I have taken the time to give you some estimates based on my experience and those of other professionals. Below are estimates of weight based on dimension for various regions and rock type:

*Face feet assumes average thickness of the wall is 18".  Actual thickness will affect Face Feet.
*The List Below is stone readily available in Michigan:

Region                          Rock Type                    Estimated Weight                       Pounds/Face Foot

Pennsylvania/NY         Bluestone                      162.5 pounds/cubic foot             243.75 lb/face foot
Wisconson                   Chilton                          168 pounds/cubic foot                252.00 lb/face foot
Wisconson                   Fon Du Loc                   162 pounds/cubic foot                243.00 lb/face foot
Mid West                     Granite                          160 pounds/ cubic foot               240.00 lb/face foot
Michigan                     Michigan Fieldstone     170 pounds/per cubic foot          255.00 lb/ face foot
Michigan                     Michigan Limestone     155 pounds per cubic foot          132.50 lb/ face foot
Canada                        Canadian Limestone      165 pounds per cubic foot          247.50 lb/face foot
Michigan                     Grindstone                     136 pounds per cubic foot          204.00 lb/face foot

The Right-Size Wall Stone for Your Project

Building Stone: Different natural stone wall projects call for different size stone. For the sake of stability, use the largest boulders you can handle.  Retaining walls under two feet tall can be built using 10-18” boulders. Vary the sizes and shapes in order to give it a more natural look. Larger walls should be built using 18”-36” boulders. Boulders over 24” will probably require a machine to install.

Small Boulder Retaining Walls and  Rosetta Dimensional Steps

Shims: Whatever the size of the boulders you intend to use always keep some smaller angular stones handy for use as shims. Shims are used to increase contact between rock surfaces and thus improve stability. They can also help stablize rocks that rock.  Use a sledge hammer to set any shims that will be filling spaces between boulders.

If the soil at your sight is rich in either clay or humus, you will need crushed stone and rubble for backfill. Proper backfill improves drainage and keeps frost heave (a problem in cold northern parts of the county) from shoving boulders out of your wall. 

Building Your Retaining Wall

Before you do anything else, locate any underground utilities. Most municipalities have programs set up to provide free or inexpensive utility location. Give them a call. In Michigan you need to call MISS DIG. Next, mark out the base of your retaining wall using spray paint. Make sure you keep in mind the set back. Allow for a minimum of 1 inch set back per 12 inches of height. For walls over five feet, set back should be 1.5” per ten inches of height.  Once you have marked out the front of your wall, begin digging a trench approximately 1 ½ times the depth and 2x the thickness of your average wall stone.  Dig 6-12” in front of face of the wall.  Boulder Walls can be built by simply digging individual stones into the soil so they sit about 1/3 of the total height into the ground.

Chilton Dry-Stacked Retaining Wall

If you are using stacked  stone such as Chilton or Bluestone, it will be necessary to dig at least six inches deeper than the average thickness of your stones.  This will allow for a compacted "chips n dust" or crushed concrete base.  You will need to dig your trench  wide enough to allow for a minimum of 6 inches in front, and 6 inches behind the wall's base layer.   Thus, if your average wall stones are one (1) foot wide, front to back, you will dig your trench 2' wide.  Doing this will ensure a stable base and keep your stones from sinking or tipping forward or backward.  

To learn more about my services and begin planning your professionally designed and installed retaining wall project,

Call or Text Brent NOW

(616) 328-3258.

Creating Harmony in the Landscape: Color Schemes

In the landscape, harmony refers to the way in which various elements in the landscape are organized to create a sense of unity or continuity within an individual garden area as well as between distinct areas within the overall landscape. Various elemental types can be used to create harmony within a landscape. Each element adds a new dimension of unity within the garden and landscape. Among these various elements, I would like to emphasis the following: Color Schemes, Hardscape elements, Repeated Forms, and Green Spaces.

Let’s first consider color schemes.  Color Schemes are probably the most easily identified element in a landscape, and therefore the most habitually emphasized. Color schemes rely on specific color combinations that can make or break a garden. They can create harmony or consonance within the landscape.  Therefore, color schemes must be chosen with care to ensure you accomplish your express purpose. 

The most exciting combinations are not always planned.  As you create your gardens, you will unexpectedly come across combinations that excite your senses.  Feel free to experiment with new partnerships. Choose an individual color, several analogous or complimentary colors to be used throughout the landscape. 

Color partnerships can be separated into two categories: contrasting/complimentary colors and analogous/harmonizing colors. When contrasting colors are combined, they tend to draw attention to themselves through explosive relationship. Tension is created, heightening our senses and drawing our eyes to them. By standing out, these vibrant color combinations further emphasis the more harmonic color combinations. Seizing our attention, these contrasting color combinations can highlight transition between two areas in the landscape. Beware: too many dissonant color combinations can destroy a garden. Our goal should then be to limit these contrasting color combinations in order to emphasis the overall unity of the garden or landscape. I often combine purples with complementary yellows in smaller numbers or greens with bright reds as seen in the Poppy or carnation.

Complimentary colors, on the other hand, are soothing.  They create a sense of serenity. Try using blues and purples or reds and orange.  When transitioning between color combinations, use neutral colors such as whites, silvers, greys and blacks. (Check out this free online interactive color wheel to learn about color wheel theory http://thevirtualinstructor.com/interactivecolorwheel.html).

It is easy to focus exclusively on flower color. However, flowers come and go. They blossom and fade with the seasons’ change. Foliage, however, is longer lasting and often “evergreen” and thus the more significant color producer in the landscape. I would, therefore, encourage you to try basing your color scheme on the foliage of one or more specimen plants. Consider basing your color scheme on the hues of elements such as tree and shrub bark, boulders, garden sculptures and brick or natural stone pavers.

Hardscape elements repeated in the landscape can also draw together a disparate landscape. Thus, when you are dealing with various themes such as formal and informal areas, perennial, annual or mixed, sun and shade gardens, consider using common hardscape elements such as stone or brick. Both of these can be used in a number of applications. For instance, granite can be used to create a very appealing patio or walkway as well as retaining walls, stream beds, accent rocks or sculptures. Perhaps you could use granite to create a unique water feature such as a fountain surrounded by granite pebbles. Then, use the same granite pebbles or a crushed form of granite to create a meandering path through a woodland garden with granite outcroppings.

Repeating a particular plant such as a Rhododendron or weeping Japanese Maple could also add another unifying element.  Often you will find such plants can be grown in both sun and shade with adjustments to irrigation scheduling. 

Try using Redwood or Cedar in both your fencing as well as your decking application.  Match the brick in your front walkway to the brick on your house. It may be difficult to match the house and walkway precisely, especially if your home is more than a couple of years old. However, there is almost always another brick that will coordinate with the existing house brick.

Carefree Delight Roses: Pruning Rose Bushes in Spring

I have three large shrub roses in my front yard - Carefree Delight Rose.  I have done relatively minor pruning for the last five years to keep the shrubs around six feet high during the summer and five during the winter.  They have made a wonderful hedge along the front ramp and brought many compliments because they bloom almost continuously from mid Spring through late fall.  Extra pruning a couple times a year increases the number of blooms, but is not strictly necessary.

Now, the maples in my front yard are maturing and casting shadows.  In addition, the Carefree Delight Rose grows approximately six feet tall and five feet wide.  The growth of both the trees and rose bushes has led to thinning foliage and branches along the base of the shrubs. 

So, this Spring I cut them back hard to encourage new growth, especially in  each base and interior.

Most rose bushes benefit from hard pruning either in the Fall or in the Spring. I generally prune shrubs for my clients in Fall. This keeps the canes from cutting each other during the storms of winter.  Wind and snow push the canes together so the thorns tend to slice as they move along other stems. 

Here you can see the winter damage to a large section of this rose bush. 

The branches are dull grey and tan and lack any new leaf buds seen on the healthy branches.  The damage that caused this die back is located further down on a larger branch but is most visible all of the branches seen here.

This damage increases dead branches making it more difficult to prune in Spring.  On the other hand, leaving the pruning until Spring, allows you to enjoy the bright orange rose hips throughout winter.  This picture exemplifies the extreme damage that can occur as a result of thorns from one branch cutting through the bark of another.  This branch as become twisted and weak and could, eventually lead to significant damage to the rest of the shrub if not pruned.




You can make use of the time between now and when the snow finishes melting by trimming your roses.  First, you will cut back the complete rose bush by two thirds.  Here I have trimmed back three Rose bushes to the main canes in order to restore structure to shrubs that have become unruly.


These buds are located where a leaf joins the stem. Since most rose bushes (in cold climates) lose all of their leaves during winter you can identify the lateral buds by locating the nubs along the cane where the branch seems to bend or angle in another direction.  



Lateral bud on a young cane.

Lateral bud on an older cane.




Cut the branches at a 45 degree angle approximately 1/4" above and away from the lateral bud.

Next, remove all dead and crossing branches. This will reduce future damage. All together, you will want to thin the shrubs by a third to half.    So, once you have removed all the dead branches, you may still need to remove some healthy growth.  This will enable air, light and water to penetrate the interior and lead to a healthier plant. Try to remove branches evenly.

Some branches will have winter kill on their tips. Simply cut these back to a healthy lateral bud.

Crossing branches, such as those seen in this picture, can damage each other and create openings for disease and insect invasion.

Cut branches that are completely dead all the way back to a living cane as seen here.  Avoid cutting into the collar which surrounds the base of the branch.  Damage to the collar can keep the wound from healing properly and lead to further damage.




Notice the hole that was caused by the thorns of another rose cane.  This hole is creates access to insects that can damage the cane, as well as interfering with flow of nutrients to the Rose bush.

 

 

 

 

Now that the rose bushes are pruned back to a simple framework, you can reach the base where old canes have not been cut back all the way to the base.  Some of these old canes, such as those seen here, may be dead and need to be removed to a living branch.

Late Winter Early Spring Landscape Maintenance Projects

Snow Snow Snow.  Almost gone right?  Not quite.  I still have several inches of snow in my front yard and mounds along the street and driveway.  But it soon will be gone.  For those of you just itching to get outside and start working on your yards, there are things that you can do now to prepare your gardens for Spring.

Pruning Trees and Shrubs:

Today, I pruned a severely over-grown Crab apple tree for a client.  Dead branches, from previous hard pruning, had fallen in among the living branches.  The previous pruning had focused exclusively on the outer portions of the tree, leaving many dead branches still clinging to live ones.  The majority of dead branches were the result of years of insufficient light, water, and air reaching the leaves.  I pruned out and removed all the dead branches, along with excessively dense live branches, to allow air, rain, and sunlight to penetrate deep into the tree. 

Most likely, you can handle pruning small trees.  When you prune your trees, remove all dead branches along with any crossing or touching branches.  Branches growing vertically without secondary branching should also be removed.  These are suckers if they emerge from the roots or base of the tree trunk, or water sprouts if they grow from the trunk or branches.  Water sprouts are usually caused by previous pruned or broken branches.  Both suckers and water sprouts suck energy from the tree and cause it to grow weakly and irregularly.  Suckers can grow from any point along roots near the soil surface.  Crabapple, Aspen, Beech, Birch and Dogwood are particularly susceptible to suckering.

Now that the harsh winter weather is almost behind us, it is possible to start pruning the shrubs too.  One of the first chores in my own yard this year, will be inspecting the shrubs close to my house.  Usually, I get small amounts of snow falling from the roof over the full length of the winter. Not this year.  The constant extreme cold allowed snow and ice to build precipitously on my roof.  Guess what.  When we had a few warm days, all that ice and snow slid from my roof and landed on my shrubs.  I have never had this problem before.  I had one chunk of ice crash down on top of half a dozen Burning Bushes.  Crushed most of them in one foul swoop. 

So, I will be headed out once that snow and ice has melted, to cut most of those to the ground or close to it.  If you have the same issue, don't worry, most shrubs actually benefit from a hard pruning.  If you are in doubt, feel free to message me or send me a text with a picture of your plants.  I will be glad to advise you on an individual basis and help you identify the shrub and the best solution to your unique situation.

Cleaning Up Debris:

I don't know if you are seeing the same thing, but I have noticed an unusual amount of debris in my yard and on the streets this year.  Now that the snow is melting, all the garbage that blew out of the garbage trucks over this long harsh winter, all the leaves that waited to fall from the trees until the snow started falling, all those branches broken by ice storms and heavy snow falls and fierce winds, all the dog leavings abandoned by people too cold to stop to pick up the mess (mostly me and my kids), is being exposed by the slow melt.

Well, it's not too cold to do the clean up now.  If you do, as I am doing, a little at a time as it is exposed, this unpleasant chore won't feel so overwhelming.  And when the enjoyable part of Spring garden chores is possible, you will be ready.  The leaves may have to wait a bit. 

Live in the West Michigan Area and have some Spring Landscape Maintenance that needs doing but don't have the time, energy or inclination to do it, give Brent a call at (616) 328-3258.  I'll be happy to give you a quote on getting your landscape in shape for the season.

Severe Winter Hits Honey Bee Population Hard: Plants to Help Honey Bees

Last month a guest on NPR discussed the severe drop in the Honey Bee population over this winter due to the severe weather.  Record low temperatures and high snowfall in the midwest along with reduced food sources resulted in bees starving and freezing. 

This year's decline, combined with a yearly decrease in the honey bee population of approximately 30%  for the past decade could have a devastating economic affect on the Midwest.  There are multiple contributers to the bee problems Michigan is facing, among which are: seasonal food shortages, Colony Collapse Disorder, changes in weather patterns, and improper use of insecticides.

Because Michigan is among the top five states for commercial beekeeping operations and the state relies on bees to pollinate 50% of its crops, this should concern everyone.  Bee pollinated crops account for over over $1 billion in sales in Michigan alone, in addition to the $7.4 million in honey production in 2009 (http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/using_honey_bees_for_fruit_pollination).  This issue is of both financial and ecological concern to everyone living in Michigan, the Midwest, and anyone relying on crops produced here.

Among the crops pollinated by honey bees in the Grand Rapids, MI area are blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin, asparagus, alfalfa, apples, onions.... MSU publication Using honey bees for fruit pollination identifies seventeen crops pollinated by these insects.

In order to bolster the honey bee population, landscape designs should include plants that help tide bees over during the crop "off season".  The following is a list of trees, shrubs, and perennials that can be purchased in Grand Rapids, MI, and grown in your home landscape to encourage establishment and survival of honey bee colonies in your area.  Included are approximate dates during which honey bees forage these plants (information derived from numerous sources including: http://www.ginlc.org/education/bee_friendly_plants.htm and http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/honey-plants.html and http://saginawbees.org/honeyplants.html and http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder).
 

Trees Attractive to Honey Bees

Acer rubrum 'Autumn Blaze' (Red Maple): March-April

Salix melanostachys (Pussywillow): March - April

Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy' (Redbud): April

Prunus 'Snofozam' (Snow Fountain Cherry): April

Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' (Sumac): April-May

Malus 'Prairifire' (Apple): Late April - Late May

Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree): May-June

Tilia americana (Linden/Basswood): June

Garden Perennials Attractive to Honey Bees

Crocus: March-April

Phlox subulata (Creeping Phlox): April-May

Alyssum saxatile ‘Compactum’ (Perennial Alyssum): April-May

Aubrieta x cultorum ‘White Wall Gem’(Rock Cress): Late April-May

Ligularia stenocephala 'Little Rocket': late April to Late May

Nepta x faassenii ‘Walker's Low’ (Cat Mint): April-September

Leucanthemum x superbum 'Snowcap' (Shasta Daisy):

Allium 'Globemaster': May through June

Lychnis viscaria ‘Firebird’ (Catchfly): May-June

Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm): May-June

Trifolium (Clover): Late May-Late June

Thymus serpyllum ‘Magic Carpet’ (Mother of Thyme): May-August

Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ (Sage): May-August

Lavandula angustifolia (Lavander): June-August

Lupinus 'Gallery' (Dwarf Lupine): June-August

Malva sylvestris ‘Zebrina’ (Malva): June-August

Gaillardia aristata ‘Burgundy’ (Gaillardia): June-September

Echinacea 'Pixie Meadowbrite' (Purple Coneflower): June-October

Monarda 'Cambridge Scarlet' (Bee Balm): July-August

Allium senexcens subsp montanum Mountain Garlic: July-August

Achillea millefolium 'Moonshine' (Yarrow): July-September

Agastache foeniculum (Anise – Hyssop): Early July-Mid September

Eupatorium pupureum ‘Joe Pye Weed’: July-September

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Goldsturm’ (Black Eye Susan): July-October

Pervoskia atriplicifolia 'Little Spire' (Russian Sage): August-September

Echinops ritro (Blue Globe Thistle): July-August

Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Stone Crop): August-October

Anemone tomentosa 'Robustissima' (Robust Windflower): Sept-Oct

Aster oblongifolius 'October Skies' (Aromatic Aster): Early September-October

 

 

Annuals Attractive to Honey Bees

Snap Dragon
Nasturtium

 

Natives Attractive to Honey Bees

Zizia aurea (Golden Alexanders): April-July

Physocarpus opulifolius (Common Ninebark): May-July

Veronicastrum virginicum (Culver's Root): May-August

Monarda punctata (Horsemint/Spotted Beebalm): June-July

Ratibida pinnata (Yellow Coneflower): June-August

Allium cernuum (Nodding Wild Onion): June-August
Spiraea alba (Meadowsweet): June-August
Vernonia missurica (Missouri ironweed): July-August
Asclepias incarnata (Swamp Milkweed): July-August

Scrophularia marilandica (Late Figwort): July-September

Cacalia atriplicifolia (Pale Indian plantain): July-August

Silphium perfoliatum (Cup Plant): July-September

Agastache nepetoides (Yellow Giant Hyssop): July-September
Eupatorium perfoliatum (Boneset): July-September
Lobelia siphilitica (Blue Lobelia): July-September
Helianthus strumosus (Pale-leaved Sunflower): July-September
Aster novae-angliae (New England aster): August-September
Solidago riddellii (Riddell's goldenrod): September-October
Aster laevis (Smooth Aster): September-October

Sambucus canadensis (American elder): June-July

Prunus spp. (Wild Cherry): March

Aronia melanocarpa (Black Chokecherry): May

Cornus amomum (Silky Dogwood): May-June

Pictures of these plants will be added as they are taken. All pictures are originals by Brent Langley.

If you are interested in adding some of these plants to your landscape or garden, and would like some help with design and/or procurement,  feel free to call Brent Langley at (616) 328-3258.

 

 

 

What Landscape Edging Should You Choose

There are so many options to choose from when considering a form of edging for your garden beds: plastic, steel, aluminum, brick, stone, poured and formed concrete curbing, and natural spade edge.  I will explain the "spade edge" later.  The others are fairly self explanatory.  In this blog, I will lay out the pros and cons of each and the effort needed to install each.

Plastic Edging: 
For years, I have been telling my clients to stay away from plastic edging.   You know the kind: Three or  four inches tall, flimsy, with a tubular top designed to remain above ground and help delineate the space between garden and lawn.  I can't tell you how many times I have pulled plastic edging up at a project.  Usually, it is already broken and pushed several inches above its original installed position. 

The stuff is badly designed.  The six to eight inch spikes are too short and too few to hold the plastic in place, even when the soil has been packed around it as per manufacturer's specs. The spikes are generally spiked through the plastic, thus creating a break that will eventually assist in the failure of the edging.  Many of the manufacturers use flimsy plastic spikes that break easily.  The freeze-thaw cycles experienced in much of the country degrades the plastic, causing it to become brittle rather than flexible.  The same freeze-thaw cycle makes use of that tubular top to shove the plastic out of the ground within a few seasons.  Plastic edging is impossible to mow over or weed whip without breaking it.  Considering the amount of work required to install this edging (you have to dig a trench 3-4" deep and wide enough to slide the edging in and still have room to nail the spike in using a hammer), and the relatively short life-cycle of plastic edging, I say stay away from it altogether. 

Steel Edging:
Because steel is very strong, it would seem a good option for edging.  It should stand up to the abuse of mowers and weed wackers, shovels and rakes and weather.  However, steel edging is generally powder coated (painted) in order to protect the steel from rusting and breaking down over years of in ground application.  The green, black, or brown paint tends to chip off when run over by a mower, thus creating an opening for rust to take hold.  So much for rust protection.

Steel edging is heavy weight and tends to be less affected by frost heave than plastic edging and will, therefore, stay in place.  However, it is also more difficult to work with.  It does not flex well on tight turns, and requires more effort to trim in order to fit the beds you lay out.  In addition, obviously, steel edging is heavy.  It usually comes in 6-8' sections which must be connected using a built in locking mechanism.  This can be a challenge.  So, though steel will outlast plastic edging, I do not recommend using it for most applications.  Possible use: separating areas that will not be disturbed by mowing, weed wacking or digging.

Aluminum Edging:

Aluminum edging varies in quality greatly.  Low quality aluminum edging such as that found in big box stores is also flimsy.  When purchasing aluminum edging, choose heavier grade material, either 1/8 or 3/16" thick.  In Michigan, I purchase all of my aluminum edging from Curv Rite which is based in Wayland, MI.  They offer a wide variety of aluminum restrain systems.  I most often use either their 2000 series (1/8") or 3000 series (3/16") for garden or lawn edging projects.  These products come in 4" and 5.5" heights and 8' and 16' lengths.  Check their products out http://www.curv-rite.com/landscapeedgnig.html. 

Aluminum edging has com a long way in the past 15 years.  The quality and durability of professional grade edging is excellent.  The biggest problem I still see today, is with improper installation practices.  The edging is meant to separate lawns, and beds.  It is not meant to be decorative edging.  Bury the aluminum edging so no more than 1/2" sticks above the ground.  Grass and stone or mulch can hide the rest.  Leave it too high, and it will be damaged by mowers. 

This product still requires you to dig a trench deep enough and wide enough to set the edging in and nail the stakes in place.  Before you begin trenching, make sure you know where your utilities and irrigation and landscape lighting lines are.  It is easy to damage them when you are digging four or five inches deep.  Be very warry of using a trenching machine.  Better to do it by hand if you are not sure where all those lines run.  Then at least you will know if and when and where damage has occurred and can fix it before it becomes a larger and more costly issue.  

Unlike plastic, it takes alot to damage the aluminum edging.  It won't break down like plastic or steel.  And it is easier to install than steel because it is light weight.  Overall, I believe aluminum edging is the most cost effective, long-lasting option available. And, you can do it yourself if you have the strength, skill and patience to dig your trench.

Brick and natural stone edging or borders can add character, depth and sense of permanence not encounter when using plastic, steel or aluminum edging.  Because of the innate color and texture variance of brick and stone, they provide another dimension of character to the landscape.  Chosen carefully, these edging options can also help tie structures to the landscape through those colors and textures found in the siding and roof of your home.  This continuity adds depth to both the house and garden. 

The literal weight of the brick or stone edging/border can be felt.  Our understanding and sense of awe at the structure of brick and stone buildings, castles, carvings, monuments etc. carries over into the garden.  It makes us feel like the garden has been around for a long time and will continue long into the future.  And properly installed, it can.

Proper installation of brick and natural stone edging varies based on the size of the individual pieces being laid.  Typical bricks weigh only a few pounds and therefore require some type of base to ensure they remain in place through the tough freeze and thaw cycles of Michigan.  The same goes for relatively small and thin natural stone (i.e. flagstone).  This will keep the bricks or stones from becoming uneven as the years go by.

When I lay brick and flagstone borders, I dig approximately 6 inches below the finished level and 2 inches wider than the width of the border.  So, if your brick is 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, and you are laying your bricks side by side with the long sides against each other (this is called a soldier run), your border will be 4 inches wide.  You will dig your trench a total of 6 inches wide to allow for 1 inch at either end of the 4 inch long brick.  Dig the full length of the trench before moving on the next step. 

Next, you will put 4 inches of crushed concrete or chips n dust at the bottom of the trench.  Chips n Dust is easier to work with that crushed concrete because it can be leveled more evenly.  Another option is stone dust.  Sand shifts too much.  You won't be able to compact it sufficiently, which leads to shifting of the stone or brick when any weight is applied, (i.e. running a lawn mower or wheelbarrow over the border).  Using a 4-6 inch wide tamper, thoroughly compact the crushed concrete, chips n dust or stone dust.  Use your brick or stone to check the depth of the trench to make sure there is enough base for the finished border to be approximately 1/4" above the grade of your lawn or garden bed.  Add or remove base material as needed.

Now start laying the brick or stone side by side, eliminating any gaps between by trimming with either a chisel and hammer or a diamond bladed saw.  Lay a several pieces and then check for smooth surface by laying a straight edge or level across the top surface.  Using a rubber mallet, tap any areas that are too high.  Add chips n dust or stone dust as needed to raise low bricks or stones.  Once an area of several linear feet has been laid, tamp soil at along the ends of the bricks to help hold them in place.  Using brick edging along the garden bed side of the border may be helpful because you probably add mulch to the beds on regular basis and will want to push back soil and mulch each year to make sure it does not overflow the border.  The brick edge ensures the bricks stay put in the process.

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(616) 328-3258

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How to Build a Retaining Wall in Michigan

Retaining walls can be built of numerous materials types, natural stone such as fieldstone and quarried stone, man-made pre-cast or cast in place concrete wall systems, brick, timber, composite materials (plastic and wood particles combined), and even metal.  My preference is to build retaining walls in natural stone, but generally, the cost of natural stone is significantly more than that of man-made materials due to mining/quarrying costs and installation labor costs.  Michigan fieldstone boulders are an exception to this rule since they require less foundation preparation, and are more common in West Michigan than is quarried stone, and thus costs less in labor and materials.
 


This retaining wall was built by Omega in 2013 using seven tons of Michigan fieldstone boulders hand picked from Grand Rapids Gravel, and planted using material from Bohemia Nursery in West Olive, MI.

The wall and steps seen here were built by Omega Brick & Landscaping using Burnt Red Blend Wallstone/Wedgestone and Stratford Pavers manufactured by Hanson.

Built by Omega Brick & Landscaping using Antique Wallstone and Wedgestone Wall in Grand Rapids Township near Frederick Meijer Gardens

 I built this wall several years ago on Philadelphia SE in Grand Rapids, MI using St. Clair PISA 2 retaining wall by Unilock.

 

Split Chilton Wallstone, a natural limestone mined in Wisconsin, was used by Omega to build this wall in Ada, MI

 

Regardless of the materials being used, all retaining walls share fundamental building requirements that ensure long-lasting structural integrity.

1. Properly placed and compacted foundation material to keep your retaining wall from sinking or tipping. 

 

2. Geo textile fabric to separate base and backfill material from native soil which, left to its own device, will seep into the base and backfill material and degrade them as well as seep through the front of the wall. 

3. Properly placed and compacted backfill material to keep water from undermining the your wall or, in the case of wood, rotting it.

 

4. Carefully placed and leveled retaining wall foundation.

 

5. Properly sloped soil above the retaining wall to direct water away from the wall or over the wall.

 

When preparing your site for a retaining wall, whether replacing an existing wall or building a new one, consider all surrounding structures and land formations. These structures and formations can have a significant effect on the survival of your retaining wall by directing water toward or away from your wall.

If water will be directed toward your wall as things stand, you will need to redirect the water by installing drains and drain tiles or by changing the slope of the land formations. Which you choose has much to do with the amount of labor and equipment cost. Drains and drain tiles are inexpensive in and of themselves. However, installing them can require significant time and equipment costs. The quickest way to install a drain tile is with a trencher such as the Ditch Witch. In Grand Rapids, MI, I rent this machine from Advanced Rentals. http://www.advancedrentalcenter.com/products_43_Trencher-30-x-4.html?cat=2&sub=11 .

Dig your trench a minimum of eight inches wider than your retaining wall material.  Dig deep enough to lay down a minimum of six inches of crushed concrete or gravel (your base material) plus the height of one block, timber or stone.  Your will bury the first layer of your wall below grade.  In this case, because the soil here is clay and tends to hold water, in order to ensure minimal shifting and upheaval in I dug twelve inches below grade. 

 By digging 12 inches below grade, I was able to install eight inches of crushed concrete and still have room to bury my first course of retaining wall block.  Better safe than sorry.

Retaining walls built in Caledonia, MI for use as raised planting beds.
These are part of the system seen in the pictures above demonstrating proper base preparation.

 

Once your trench has been dug, lay out your geo textile.  Run the fabric from the front of the trench, down into the trench and up the back side of the trench and hill you are retaining.  Use large staples to hold the fabric in place both front and back of the trench.  Once the retaining wall is completed, you will need to pull the fabric over the front and back of the trench to cover the base and backfill material, so be sure to leave at least one foot of fabric beyond the front of the trench and two feet above the hill.  Also, allow enough slack in the fabric for the crushed concrete and stone to settle without tearing it.

 

Crushed stone from Grand Rapids Gravel.  Not the angular nature of the stone.  This allows the stone to be compacted and keeps it from shifting as happens with rounded pea stone/gravel or washed stone.

To make it easier to level your first layer of stone or block, consider laying a layer of chips n dust or stone dust on top of the crushed concrete approximately 1/2"-1" deep.

In Grand Rapids, MI, I purchase all of my crushed concrete and crushed stone from Grand Rapids Gravel.

Once the crushed concrete is fairly level, it is time to begin laying the blocks or stone.  You must place each block/stone individually, leveling each from front to back and side to side.  Level your first unit using a six or twelve inch level, tapping it with a heavy rubber mallet to lower set it deeper into the crushed concrete where it is too high.  If you need to add material under the block to get it right, use chips n dust, or stone dust.  It easier to level blocks and stone on chips n dust or stone dust than it is on crushed concrete.  Lay the second unit next to the first, using the first to level the second. 

Crushed stone is the preferred material for use behind retaining walls. Check them out at http://www.grgravel.com/ Try to install a minimum of twelve inches of crushed stone behind your wall. It is best to place the stone as you go to ensure proper compaction on filling. I install the stone after each level of retaining wall. I usually use a hand held tamper rather than a plate compactor. A plate compactor tends to push the the retaining wall our of alignment, requiring you to go back and push blocks back into place. If you are using fairly heavy retaining wall units (over 80lbs each), you will be safe using the compactor and save yourself a lot of manual labor. Be sure while you are putting in the backfill material to keep the geo textile fabric from pulling away from the native soil. You don't want to create gaps in the fabric where the soil can sift through and undermine the backfill and wall.

You may be required to cut the stone/block as you build in order to get a tight fit between blocks.  The best option is to rent a concrete saw or a large brick/block saw from a local rental company such as Home Depot or Advanced Rental here in Grand Rapids, MI.  These saws are equipped with diamond blades that make quick work of these cuts. 

Do not use blocks smaller than half the length of the standard units if at all possible.  They can become unstable and can be pushed out of the wall.  If you must use smaller pieces, use masons adhesive/glue to hold them in place by gluing them to the blocks above and below them.  Otherwise, the only time you should use adhesive is when you get to the capstones.  The capstones should be glued down using two beads of adhesive running lengthwise along the top of the previously laid layer of block: one bead two inches from the back of the block, one along two inches from the front of the block.  Try not to place the glue too close to the front.  If you do, the glue will ooze out and be exposed on the front of the wall.  The glue is difficult to remove.

When setting the capstone, use a rubber mallet to tap each block down to achieve proper adhesion.

 

For assistance with design or installation of your retaining wall,

 

Call Brent Langley today @ (616) 328-3258.