Late Winter Early Spring Landscape Maintenance Projects

Snow Snow Snow.  Almost gone right?  Not quite.  I still have several inches of snow in my front yard and mounds along the street and driveway.  But it soon will be gone.  For those of you just itching to get outside and start working on your yards, there are things that you can do now to prepare your gardens for Spring.

Pruning Trees and Shrubs:

Today, I pruned a severely over-grown Crab apple tree for a client.  Dead branches, from previous hard pruning, had fallen in among the living branches.  The previous pruning had focused exclusively on the outer portions of the tree, leaving many dead branches still clinging to live ones.  The majority of dead branches were the result of years of insufficient light, water, and air reaching the leaves.  I pruned out and removed all the dead branches, along with excessively dense live branches, to allow air, rain, and sunlight to penetrate deep into the tree. 

Most likely, you can handle pruning small trees.  When you prune your trees, remove all dead branches along with any crossing or touching branches.  Branches growing vertically without secondary branching should also be removed.  These are suckers if they emerge from the roots or base of the tree trunk, or water sprouts if they grow from the trunk or branches.  Water sprouts are usually caused by previous pruned or broken branches.  Both suckers and water sprouts suck energy from the tree and cause it to grow weakly and irregularly.  Suckers can grow from any point along roots near the soil surface.  Crabapple, Aspen, Beech, Birch and Dogwood are particularly susceptible to suckering.

Now that the harsh winter weather is almost behind us, it is possible to start pruning the shrubs too.  One of the first chores in my own yard this year, will be inspecting the shrubs close to my house.  Usually, I get small amounts of snow falling from the roof over the full length of the winter. Not this year.  The constant extreme cold allowed snow and ice to build precipitously on my roof.  Guess what.  When we had a few warm days, all that ice and snow slid from my roof and landed on my shrubs.  I have never had this problem before.  I had one chunk of ice crash down on top of half a dozen Burning Bushes.  Crushed most of them in one foul swoop. 

So, I will be headed out once that snow and ice has melted, to cut most of those to the ground or close to it.  If you have the same issue, don't worry, most shrubs actually benefit from a hard pruning.  If you are in doubt, feel free to message me or send me a text with a picture of your plants.  I will be glad to advise you on an individual basis and help you identify the shrub and the best solution to your unique situation.

Cleaning Up Debris:

I don't know if you are seeing the same thing, but I have noticed an unusual amount of debris in my yard and on the streets this year.  Now that the snow is melting, all the garbage that blew out of the garbage trucks over this long harsh winter, all the leaves that waited to fall from the trees until the snow started falling, all those branches broken by ice storms and heavy snow falls and fierce winds, all the dog leavings abandoned by people too cold to stop to pick up the mess (mostly me and my kids), is being exposed by the slow melt.

Well, it's not too cold to do the clean up now.  If you do, as I am doing, a little at a time as it is exposed, this unpleasant chore won't feel so overwhelming.  And when the enjoyable part of Spring garden chores is possible, you will be ready.  The leaves may have to wait a bit. 

Live in the West Michigan Area and have some Spring Landscape Maintenance that needs doing but don't have the time, energy or inclination to do it, give Brent a call at (616) 328-3258.  I'll be happy to give you a quote on getting your landscape in shape for the season.

Severe Winter Hits Honey Bee Population Hard: Plants to Help Honey Bees

Last month a guest on NPR discussed the severe drop in the Honey Bee population over this winter due to the severe weather.  Record low temperatures and high snowfall in the midwest along with reduced food sources resulted in bees starving and freezing. 

This year's decline, combined with a yearly decrease in the honey bee population of approximately 30%  for the past decade could have a devastating economic affect on the Midwest.  There are multiple contributers to the bee problems Michigan is facing, among which are: seasonal food shortages, Colony Collapse Disorder, changes in weather patterns, and improper use of insecticides.

Because Michigan is among the top five states for commercial beekeeping operations and the state relies on bees to pollinate 50% of its crops, this should concern everyone.  Bee pollinated crops account for over over $1 billion in sales in Michigan alone, in addition to the $7.4 million in honey production in 2009 (http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/using_honey_bees_for_fruit_pollination).  This issue is of both financial and ecological concern to everyone living in Michigan, the Midwest, and anyone relying on crops produced here.

Among the crops pollinated by honey bees in the Grand Rapids, MI area are blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin, asparagus, alfalfa, apples, onions.... MSU publication Using honey bees for fruit pollination identifies seventeen crops pollinated by these insects.

In order to bolster the honey bee population, landscape designs should include plants that help tide bees over during the crop "off season".  The following is a list of trees, shrubs, and perennials that can be purchased in Grand Rapids, MI, and grown in your home landscape to encourage establishment and survival of honey bee colonies in your area.  Included are approximate dates during which honey bees forage these plants (information derived from numerous sources including: http://www.ginlc.org/education/bee_friendly_plants.htm and http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/honey-plants.html and http://saginawbees.org/honeyplants.html and http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder).
 

Trees Attractive to Honey Bees

Acer rubrum 'Autumn Blaze' (Red Maple): March-April

Salix melanostachys (Pussywillow): March - April

Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy' (Redbud): April

Prunus 'Snofozam' (Snow Fountain Cherry): April

Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' (Sumac): April-May

Malus 'Prairifire' (Apple): Late April - Late May

Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree): May-June

Tilia americana (Linden/Basswood): June

Garden Perennials Attractive to Honey Bees

Crocus: March-April

Phlox subulata (Creeping Phlox): April-May

Alyssum saxatile ‘Compactum’ (Perennial Alyssum): April-May

Aubrieta x cultorum ‘White Wall Gem’(Rock Cress): Late April-May

Ligularia stenocephala 'Little Rocket': late April to Late May

Nepta x faassenii ‘Walker's Low’ (Cat Mint): April-September

Leucanthemum x superbum 'Snowcap' (Shasta Daisy):

Allium 'Globemaster': May through June

Lychnis viscaria ‘Firebird’ (Catchfly): May-June

Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm): May-June

Trifolium (Clover): Late May-Late June

Thymus serpyllum ‘Magic Carpet’ (Mother of Thyme): May-August

Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ (Sage): May-August

Lavandula angustifolia (Lavander): June-August

Lupinus 'Gallery' (Dwarf Lupine): June-August

Malva sylvestris ‘Zebrina’ (Malva): June-August

Gaillardia aristata ‘Burgundy’ (Gaillardia): June-September

Echinacea 'Pixie Meadowbrite' (Purple Coneflower): June-October

Monarda 'Cambridge Scarlet' (Bee Balm): July-August

Allium senexcens subsp montanum Mountain Garlic: July-August

Achillea millefolium 'Moonshine' (Yarrow): July-September

Agastache foeniculum (Anise – Hyssop): Early July-Mid September

Eupatorium pupureum ‘Joe Pye Weed’: July-September

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Goldsturm’ (Black Eye Susan): July-October

Pervoskia atriplicifolia 'Little Spire' (Russian Sage): August-September

Echinops ritro (Blue Globe Thistle): July-August

Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Stone Crop): August-October

Anemone tomentosa 'Robustissima' (Robust Windflower): Sept-Oct

Aster oblongifolius 'October Skies' (Aromatic Aster): Early September-October

 

 

Annuals Attractive to Honey Bees

Snap Dragon
Nasturtium

 

Natives Attractive to Honey Bees

Zizia aurea (Golden Alexanders): April-July

Physocarpus opulifolius (Common Ninebark): May-July

Veronicastrum virginicum (Culver's Root): May-August

Monarda punctata (Horsemint/Spotted Beebalm): June-July

Ratibida pinnata (Yellow Coneflower): June-August

Allium cernuum (Nodding Wild Onion): June-August
Spiraea alba (Meadowsweet): June-August
Vernonia missurica (Missouri ironweed): July-August
Asclepias incarnata (Swamp Milkweed): July-August

Scrophularia marilandica (Late Figwort): July-September

Cacalia atriplicifolia (Pale Indian plantain): July-August

Silphium perfoliatum (Cup Plant): July-September

Agastache nepetoides (Yellow Giant Hyssop): July-September
Eupatorium perfoliatum (Boneset): July-September
Lobelia siphilitica (Blue Lobelia): July-September
Helianthus strumosus (Pale-leaved Sunflower): July-September
Aster novae-angliae (New England aster): August-September
Solidago riddellii (Riddell's goldenrod): September-October
Aster laevis (Smooth Aster): September-October

Sambucus canadensis (American elder): June-July

Prunus spp. (Wild Cherry): March

Aronia melanocarpa (Black Chokecherry): May

Cornus amomum (Silky Dogwood): May-June

Pictures of these plants will be added as they are taken. All pictures are originals by Brent Langley.

If you are interested in adding some of these plants to your landscape or garden, and would like some help with design and/or procurement,  feel free to call Brent Langley at (616) 328-3258.

 

 

 

What Landscape Edging Should You Choose

There are so many options to choose from when considering a form of edging for your garden beds: plastic, steel, aluminum, brick, stone, poured and formed concrete curbing, and natural spade edge.  I will explain the "spade edge" later.  The others are fairly self explanatory.  In this blog, I will lay out the pros and cons of each and the effort needed to install each.

Plastic Edging: 
For years, I have been telling my clients to stay away from plastic edging.   You know the kind: Three or  four inches tall, flimsy, with a tubular top designed to remain above ground and help delineate the space between garden and lawn.  I can't tell you how many times I have pulled plastic edging up at a project.  Usually, it is already broken and pushed several inches above its original installed position. 

The stuff is badly designed.  The six to eight inch spikes are too short and too few to hold the plastic in place, even when the soil has been packed around it as per manufacturer's specs. The spikes are generally spiked through the plastic, thus creating a break that will eventually assist in the failure of the edging.  Many of the manufacturers use flimsy plastic spikes that break easily.  The freeze-thaw cycles experienced in much of the country degrades the plastic, causing it to become brittle rather than flexible.  The same freeze-thaw cycle makes use of that tubular top to shove the plastic out of the ground within a few seasons.  Plastic edging is impossible to mow over or weed whip without breaking it.  Considering the amount of work required to install this edging (you have to dig a trench 3-4" deep and wide enough to slide the edging in and still have room to nail the spike in using a hammer), and the relatively short life-cycle of plastic edging, I say stay away from it altogether. 

Steel Edging:
Because steel is very strong, it would seem a good option for edging.  It should stand up to the abuse of mowers and weed wackers, shovels and rakes and weather.  However, steel edging is generally powder coated (painted) in order to protect the steel from rusting and breaking down over years of in ground application.  The green, black, or brown paint tends to chip off when run over by a mower, thus creating an opening for rust to take hold.  So much for rust protection.

Steel edging is heavy weight and tends to be less affected by frost heave than plastic edging and will, therefore, stay in place.  However, it is also more difficult to work with.  It does not flex well on tight turns, and requires more effort to trim in order to fit the beds you lay out.  In addition, obviously, steel edging is heavy.  It usually comes in 6-8' sections which must be connected using a built in locking mechanism.  This can be a challenge.  So, though steel will outlast plastic edging, I do not recommend using it for most applications.  Possible use: separating areas that will not be disturbed by mowing, weed whacking or digging.

Aluminum Edging:

Aluminum edging varies in quality greatly.  Low quality aluminum edging such as that found in big box stores is also flimsy.  When purchasing aluminum edging, choose heavier grade material, either 1/8 or 3/16" thick.  In Michigan, I purchase all of my aluminum edging from Curv Rite which is based in Wayland, MI.  They offer a wide variety of aluminum restrain systems.  I most often use either their 2000 series (1/8") or 3000 series (3/16") for garden or lawn edging projects.  These products come in 4" and 5.5" heights and 8' and 16' lengths.  Check their products out http://www.curv-rite.com/landscapeedgnig.html. 

Aluminum edging has com a long way in the past 15 years.  The quality and durability of professional grade edging is excellent.  The biggest problem I still see today, is with improper installation practices.  The edging is meant to separate lawns, and beds.  It is not meant to be decorative edging.  Bury the aluminum edging so no more than 1/2" sticks above the ground.  Grass and stone or mulch can hide the rest.  Leave it too high, and it will be damaged by mowers. 

This product still requires you to dig a trench deep enough and wide enough to set the edging in and nail the stakes in place.  Before you begin trenching, make sure you know where your utilities and irrigation and landscape lighting lines are.  It is easy to damage them when you are digging four or five inches deep.  Be very warry of using a trenching machine.  Better to do it by hand if you are not sure where all those lines run.  Then at least you will know if and when and where damage has occurred and can fix it before it becomes a larger and more costly issue.  

Unlike plastic, it takes a lot to damage the aluminum edging.  It won't break down like plastic or steel.  And it is easier to install than steel because it is light weight.  Overall, I believe aluminum edging is the most cost effective, long-lasting option available. And, you can do it yourself if you have the strength, skill and patience to dig your trench.

Brick and natural stone edging or borders can add character, depth and sense of permanence not encounter when using plastic, steel or aluminum edging.  Because of the innate color and texture variance of brick and stone, they provide another dimension of character to the landscape.  Chosen carefully, these edging options can also help tie structures to the landscape through those colors and textures found in the siding and roof of your home.  This continuity adds depth to both the house and garden. 

The literal weight of the brick or stone edging/border can be felt.  Our understanding and sense of awe at the structure of brick and stone buildings, castles, carvings, monuments etc. carries over into the garden.  It makes us feel like the garden has been around for a long time and will continue long into the future.  And properly installed, it can.

Proper installation of brick and natural stone edging varies based on the size of the individual pieces being laid.  Typical bricks weigh only a few pounds and therefore require some type of base to ensure they remain in place through the tough freeze and thaw cycles of Michigan.  The same goes for relatively small and thin natural stone (i.e. flagstone).  This will keep the bricks or stones from becoming uneven as the years go by.

When I lay brick and flagstone borders, I dig approximately 6 inches below the finished level and 2 inches wider than the width of the border.  So, if your brick is 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, and you are laying your bricks side by side with the long sides against each other (this is called a soldier run), your border will be 4 inches wide.  You will dig your trench a total of 6 inches wide to allow for 1 inch at either end of the 4 inch long brick.  Dig the full length of the trench before moving on the next step. 

Next, you will put 4 inches of crushed concrete or chips n dust at the bottom of the trench.  Chips n Dust is easier to work with that crushed concrete because it can be leveled more evenly.  Another option is stone dust.  Sand shifts too much.  You won't be able to compact it sufficiently, which leads to shifting of the stone or brick when any weight is applied, (i.e. running a lawn mower or wheelbarrow over the border).  Using a 4-6 inch wide tamper, thoroughly compact the crushed concrete, chips n dust or stone dust.  Use your brick or stone to check the depth of the trench to make sure there is enough base for the finished border to be approximately 1/4" above the grade of your lawn or garden bed.  Add or remove base material as needed.

Now start laying the brick or stone side by side, eliminating any gaps between by trimming with either a chisel and hammer or a diamond bladed saw.  Lay a several pieces and then check for smooth surface by laying a straight edge or level across the top surface.  Using a rubber mallet, tap any areas that are too high.  Add chips n dust or stone dust as needed to raise low bricks or stones.  Once an area of several linear feet has been laid, tamp soil at along the ends of the bricks to help hold them in place.  Using brick edging along the garden bed side of the border may be helpful because you probably add mulch to the beds on regular basis and will want to push back soil and mulch each year to make sure it does not overflow the border.  The brick edge ensures the bricks stay put in the process.

Call or Text Brent NOW

(616) 328-3258

To learn more and retain my Professional Landscape Design & Installation Services

Fall Projects - Lawn Health

Fall is a great time to improve the health of your lawn. Among the various projects that a home owner can do, or hire a professional to do, are dethatching, over-seeding, fertilizing and weed prevention.

Right now, I am going to recommend dethatching, a simple way to improve the health of your lawn. For those of you who mulch your leaves and grass clippings into your lawn, this is an important step in the care of your lawn. Mulching clippings is a great way to insulate your grass from excessive heat and cold as well as drought that can strain the lawn and open it up to disease and insect damage. Insects love to live in that thatch buildup. Even if you don't use a mulching system on your mower, you should take a look at your lawn to see if build up is occurring. Cut out a small plug of sod in several areas of your lawn. Pull them up a look to see if there is more than half an inch of clippings built up above the soil line. If there is, it is probably time to dethatch. However, years of mulching can create buildup of thatch, which keeps water from penetrating easily. Additionally, for those of you who use insecticides and fertilizers, thatch build up can decrease their effectiveness by blocking the pathway to the root zone. When water, that can not drain properly, comes in contact with these chemicals, runoff occurs. Unnecessary runoff. If you have had trouble with ineffective fertilizer and insecticide applications, this may be your problem.

The goal of dethatching is to remove the thatch which prevents proper water and chemical penetration. Dethatching machines can be rented at most equipment rental stores. I just dethatched several acres of lawn for a client in Grand Rapids. The machine cost $90.00 for a 24 hour rental. I completed the dethatching in about six hours. Not your typical yard. Using a rake, gas powered blower, and a zero turn lawn mower, I removed approximately fifteen yards of old thatch from the lawn. That's seven and a half mounded pickup trucks full. It took me twelve hours to accomplish this.

Most of you won't have such a large project on your hands. One to two hours (maybe) using the dethatcher and another hour of raking would probably do the trick. Rent the machine for under $50.00. Operation of the dethatcher is simple. If you can mow, you can dethatch. For those of you who have a tiny yard, or don't want to spend the money, but have the time, inclination, and strength to do it, you can buy a dethatching rake to do this project.

Once you have finished dethatching your lawn, including raking up the clippings and composting or otherwise disposing of the product, you can move on to overseeding, fertilizing and weed control. Tenacity, one of the newest weed control products out there, can be applied at the same time you are overseeding/seeding and still effectively control post- and pre-emergent weeds according to Syngenta. Check it out: http://www.greencastonline.com/TenacityHerbicide/index.aspx. I'll be testing that product claim this fall and next spring to let you know how it works out.

Sustainable Lawn Care: Stewardship

Sometimes, grass is not the answer. Here in West Michigan, many homes are located on heavily wooded lots. Little sun ever filters down to the ground. This means it is always a struggle in some areas to keep that grass growing. Most lawns need a minimum of three hours of direct sunlight to remain lush and sustainable. If you don't get enough light, there really are only two remedies: prune the trees to allow enough light to get down to the lawn, or forget about your traditional lawn.

It is not always feasible or desirable to prune those shade trees. Get rid of the shade, and you lose

some of the character of the lot you loved so much in the first place. Also, remember, even if you raise the tree canopy, you might have to deal with tree roots. Trees are very thirsty. Lawns that must compete with trees for water and nutrients require extra watering and nutrients to keep them healthy.

If you don't mind getting rid of some of those trees, (they are not always desirable), keep in mind, there tends to be a considerable amount of cost, either in labor or dollars. If you decide you can stand to lose some of those trees and you can afford the expense, make sure you choose a tree service company with the necessary experience to safely remove your trees. Not everyone with a chainsaw is skilled enough to remove trees located near your home or electrical/phone wires around your home.

If you decide, "this lawn is not worth the effort", there are several alternatives to be explored. I will briefly mention them here and expound later.

First, and perhaps most obvious: groundcovers such as Myrtle or Pachysandra. These are very low maintenance plants that can grow densely in both sun and shade. Once they mature, they tend to choke out most weeds, and so keep a very nice carpet like appearance. Downside: you can't really walk through the area anymore. These plants grow six to twelve inches high and make traversing somewhat difficult. Certainly, not desirable on a regular basis.

Second, there are lower growing groundcovers, sometimes called "Steppables". Among these are Irish and Scotch Moss as well as low-growing sedums. These also give a carpet like appearance to your former lawn areas, and allow a bit more access to the area than do Myrtle and Pachysandra. Keep in mind: the "Steppables" have their limits. If you expect significant foot traffic through these areas, stepping stones will be necessary to keep feet off the plants and directed through the area to limit plant disturbance or damage. In addition, not all of these groundcovers can be grown in the shade. Carefully research the various groundcovers before choosing the one for you particular needs. For a fairly exhaustive list of low-growing ground covers go to www.stepables.com

Third, you may want to consider installing mixed gardens. Mixed gardens combine various types of plants, i.e. perennials, shrubs, groundcovers, trees and annuals. Again, if there tends to be significant foot traffic through the areas, install paths to keep those feet off the plants.

 

Fourth, consider putting in a brick or stone patio. Though a project like this is significantly more expensive and/or time consuming, it does add to the enjoyment of the outdoors by creating a space in which to enjoy your gardens and woodland. In addition, properly installed patios add value to your property that lawns, gardens and groundcovers never can.