Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts
Monday, January 30, 2017
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Late Winter Early Spring Landscape Maintenance Projects
Snow Snow Snow. Almost gone right? Not quite. I still have several inches of snow in my front yard and mounds along the street and driveway. But it soon will be gone. For those of you just itching to get outside and start working on your yards, there are things that you can do now to prepare your gardens for Spring.
Pruning Trees and Shrubs:
Today, I pruned a severely over-grown Crab apple tree for a client. Dead branches, from previous hard pruning, had fallen in among the living branches. The previous pruning had focused exclusively on the outer portions of the tree, leaving many dead branches still clinging to live ones. The majority of dead branches were the result of years of insufficient light, water, and air reaching the leaves. I pruned out and removed all the dead branches, along with excessively dense live branches, to allow air, rain, and sunlight to penetrate deep into the tree.
Most likely, you can handle pruning small trees. When you prune your trees, remove all dead branches along with any crossing or touching branches. Branches growing vertically without secondary branching should also be removed. These are suckers if they emerge from the roots or base of the tree trunk, or water sprouts if they grow from the trunk or branches. Water sprouts are usually caused by previous pruned or broken branches. Both suckers and water sprouts suck energy from the tree and cause it to grow weakly and irregularly. Suckers can grow from any point along roots near the soil surface. Crabapple, Aspen, Beech, Birch and Dogwood are particularly susceptible to suckering.
Now that the harsh winter weather is almost behind us, it is possible to start pruning the shrubs too. One of the first chores in my own yard this year, will be inspecting the shrubs close to my house. Usually, I get small amounts of snow falling from the roof over the full length of the winter. Not this year. The constant extreme cold allowed snow and ice to build precipitously on my roof. Guess what. When we had a few warm days, all that ice and snow slid from my roof and landed on my shrubs. I have never had this problem before. I had one chunk of ice crash down on top of half a dozen Burning Bushes. Crushed most of them in one foul swoop.
So, I will be headed out once that snow and ice has melted, to cut most of those to the ground or close to it. If you have the same issue, don't worry, most shrubs actually benefit from a hard pruning. If you are in doubt, feel free to message me or send me a text with a picture of your plants. I will be glad to advise you on an individual basis and help you identify the shrub and the best solution to your unique situation.
Cleaning Up Debris:
I don't know if you are seeing the same thing, but I have noticed an unusual amount of debris in my yard and on the streets this year. Now that the snow is melting, all the garbage that blew out of the garbage trucks over this long harsh winter, all the leaves that waited to fall from the trees until the snow started falling, all those branches broken by ice storms and heavy snow falls and fierce winds, all the dog leavings abandoned by people too cold to stop to pick up the mess (mostly me and my kids), is being exposed by the slow melt.
Well, it's not too cold to do the clean up now. If you do, as I am doing, a little at a time as it is exposed, this unpleasant chore won't feel so overwhelming. And when the enjoyable part of Spring garden chores is possible, you will be ready. The leaves may have to wait a bit.
Live in the West Michigan Area and have some Spring Landscape Maintenance that needs doing but don't have the time, energy or inclination to do it, give Brent a call at (616) 328-3258. I'll be happy to give you a quote on getting your landscape in shape for the season.
Pruning Trees and Shrubs:
Today, I pruned a severely over-grown Crab apple tree for a client. Dead branches, from previous hard pruning, had fallen in among the living branches. The previous pruning had focused exclusively on the outer portions of the tree, leaving many dead branches still clinging to live ones. The majority of dead branches were the result of years of insufficient light, water, and air reaching the leaves. I pruned out and removed all the dead branches, along with excessively dense live branches, to allow air, rain, and sunlight to penetrate deep into the tree.
Most likely, you can handle pruning small trees. When you prune your trees, remove all dead branches along with any crossing or touching branches. Branches growing vertically without secondary branching should also be removed. These are suckers if they emerge from the roots or base of the tree trunk, or water sprouts if they grow from the trunk or branches. Water sprouts are usually caused by previous pruned or broken branches. Both suckers and water sprouts suck energy from the tree and cause it to grow weakly and irregularly. Suckers can grow from any point along roots near the soil surface. Crabapple, Aspen, Beech, Birch and Dogwood are particularly susceptible to suckering.
Now that the harsh winter weather is almost behind us, it is possible to start pruning the shrubs too. One of the first chores in my own yard this year, will be inspecting the shrubs close to my house. Usually, I get small amounts of snow falling from the roof over the full length of the winter. Not this year. The constant extreme cold allowed snow and ice to build precipitously on my roof. Guess what. When we had a few warm days, all that ice and snow slid from my roof and landed on my shrubs. I have never had this problem before. I had one chunk of ice crash down on top of half a dozen Burning Bushes. Crushed most of them in one foul swoop.
So, I will be headed out once that snow and ice has melted, to cut most of those to the ground or close to it. If you have the same issue, don't worry, most shrubs actually benefit from a hard pruning. If you are in doubt, feel free to message me or send me a text with a picture of your plants. I will be glad to advise you on an individual basis and help you identify the shrub and the best solution to your unique situation.
Cleaning Up Debris:
I don't know if you are seeing the same thing, but I have noticed an unusual amount of debris in my yard and on the streets this year. Now that the snow is melting, all the garbage that blew out of the garbage trucks over this long harsh winter, all the leaves that waited to fall from the trees until the snow started falling, all those branches broken by ice storms and heavy snow falls and fierce winds, all the dog leavings abandoned by people too cold to stop to pick up the mess (mostly me and my kids), is being exposed by the slow melt.
Well, it's not too cold to do the clean up now. If you do, as I am doing, a little at a time as it is exposed, this unpleasant chore won't feel so overwhelming. And when the enjoyable part of Spring garden chores is possible, you will be ready. The leaves may have to wait a bit.
Live in the West Michigan Area and have some Spring Landscape Maintenance that needs doing but don't have the time, energy or inclination to do it, give Brent a call at (616) 328-3258. I'll be happy to give you a quote on getting your landscape in shape for the season.
Friday, February 14, 2014
Foliage: Form, Color and Texture
When shopping for new garden plants, it is easy to hyper-focus on flowers. Big box stores create dramatic displays of heavily flowering perennials grouped together on shelves, right where they will catch your attention. The beauty of those massed flowers really draws the eye and entices the senses. What could be more beautiful in your yard than to mimic that stunning display. Oceans of purple flowering Salvia or Veronica bringing color to your drab gardens. Splashes of orange and red Poppy. Swaths of yellow Daylillies and Black-eyed Susan bursting with color.
The plants you see flowering on the shelves now, most likely will not be flowering two weeks from now. You are seeing plants at their flowering peak. For retail garden centers, timing is everything. The stores and nurseries work together to ensure stocked plants are in their seasonal prime. So, plants that flower in early spring, will be sold in late winter and early Spring, when they are showing off their colors to the best of their ability. Summer flowering plants are stocked in late Spring or early Summer. Fall flowering plants are displayed in late Summer or early Fall.
Stores are not attempting to rip you off. But don't be fooled by wishful thinking. These plants will not flower forever. Most plants bloom for three to six weeks. Then you are left with leaves and stems.
So, when purchasing your plants, consider the form, color and texture of a plant's foliage. Between periods of flowering, foliage holds a garden together. Consider using plants for the sake of their foliage and count the flowers as a bonus.
The challenge: planning your garden to ensure interest throughout the growing season. You can plant swaths of perennials, grasses and shrubs to create dramatic displays of your own. But keep in mind the limited flowering period of each plant. Plan for flowering lulls.
Ornamental Grass and Grass-like plants:
The variety of available grass and grass-like plants on the market today is astounding. There are ornamental grasses ranging in size from six inches to ten feet tall. Some clump, some spread, some weep, some stand upright. Grasses can be found in red, white, blue, silver, purple, black, variegated, striped, spotted and solid, broad of leaf or narrow. These plants flower in Spring, Summer, and Fall in plumes of red, pink, white, silver, brown, purple.... My point is this: grass offers a wide range of options that can bring interest in form, texture, and color.
Consider some of the ornamental grasses and grass-like plants below to bring beauty to your gardens.
For more tips and tricks to creating a lush and beautiful garden, continue reading my blog.
For help designing, installing or maintaining your landscape, feel free to give Brent Langley a call at (616) 328-3258. Thank you
The plants you see flowering on the shelves now, most likely will not be flowering two weeks from now. You are seeing plants at their flowering peak. For retail garden centers, timing is everything. The stores and nurseries work together to ensure stocked plants are in their seasonal prime. So, plants that flower in early spring, will be sold in late winter and early Spring, when they are showing off their colors to the best of their ability. Summer flowering plants are stocked in late Spring or early Summer. Fall flowering plants are displayed in late Summer or early Fall.
Stores are not attempting to rip you off. But don't be fooled by wishful thinking. These plants will not flower forever. Most plants bloom for three to six weeks. Then you are left with leaves and stems.
So, when purchasing your plants, consider the form, color and texture of a plant's foliage. Between periods of flowering, foliage holds a garden together. Consider using plants for the sake of their foliage and count the flowers as a bonus.
The challenge: planning your garden to ensure interest throughout the growing season. You can plant swaths of perennials, grasses and shrubs to create dramatic displays of your own. But keep in mind the limited flowering period of each plant. Plan for flowering lulls.
Ornamental Grass and Grass-like plants:
The variety of available grass and grass-like plants on the market today is astounding. There are ornamental grasses ranging in size from six inches to ten feet tall. Some clump, some spread, some weep, some stand upright. Grasses can be found in red, white, blue, silver, purple, black, variegated, striped, spotted and solid, broad of leaf or narrow. These plants flower in Spring, Summer, and Fall in plumes of red, pink, white, silver, brown, purple.... My point is this: grass offers a wide range of options that can bring interest in form, texture, and color.
Consider some of the ornamental grasses and grass-like plants below to bring beauty to your gardens.
Calamagrostis brachytricha - Korean Feather Reed Grass
Korean Feather Reed Grass matures at approximately 24" tall and 30" wide. This plant tends to be fairly loose in habit, especially when young. This grass does well in partial shade. I would use Korean Feather Reed Grass in the foreground of large flowering perennials such as Black-eyed Susan and Cone flower. The foliage color contrast with these particular perennials
Blue Spire Oat Grass
Festuca glauca'Elijah Blue' - Elijah Blue Fescue
This Fecue is a well controlled mounding/weeping grass that tends to be a deep steel blue and grows approximately 1' tall and 9" wide.
Stipa (Nasella) tenuissima - Ponytail Grass
Calamagrostis acutiflora 'Overdam' - Overdam Feather Reed Grass
Ornamental Grasses can be left standing through Fall and Winter to add form, texture and color to what could otherwise be a bleak or drab garden.
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| Astilbe |
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| Coral Bell |
For more tips and tricks to creating a lush and beautiful garden, continue reading my blog.
For help designing, installing or maintaining your landscape, feel free to give Brent Langley a call at (616) 328-3258. Thank you
Monday, November 4, 2013
Flowers of London In July
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| Horse Chestnut - Aesculus hippocastanum |
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| Larkspur - 'Magic Fountains Sky Blue' Delphinium |
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| Onopordum acanthium - Scotch Thistle |
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| Echinops ritro 'Veitchs Blue' - Globe Thistle |
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| The contrasting flower color and form of Ligularia 'The Rocket' & Bee Balm seen here in the foreground create a lively combination through which to view the Sunken Garden further away. |
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| Monarda didyma- Bee Balm In the Foreground |
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| Lavandula in the foreground; Ligularia, Monarda, and black Snakeroot? behind. Pale yellow Allium in front of the Lavender offers another soft color and textural contrast. |
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| Dahlia - |
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| Grand Rapids Landscape Architects & Designers |
Sunday, October 27, 2013
London - Water Features in Kensington Park, Gardens and Hyde Park
Recently, my wife and I had the opportunity to spend a week in London, England. We spent the time strolling Kensington Park and Hyde Park. The majority of the Parks' area is dedicated to wide boulevards and expansive lawns. Several lovely water features including The Fountains of the Italian Garden, Serpentine Lake and the Diane, Princess of Wales, Memorial Fountain, were available for the enjoyment of the Parks' many visitors.
The Diane, Princess of Wales, Memorial Fountain drew many visitors, especially families with small children. The parents lounged along the side of the meandering fountain's course or on the green while their children frolicked in the water. One elderly gentleman also joined in the fun, immersing himself in the flowing stream. I wasn't certain his attire and position in society lent itself to such escapades, but no one else seemed to give a second glance. So,....
The Diane, Princess of Wales, Memorial Fountain drew many visitors, especially families with small children. The parents lounged along the side of the meandering fountain's course or on the green while their children frolicked in the water. One elderly gentleman also joined in the fun, immersing himself in the flowing stream. I wasn't certain his attire and position in society lent itself to such escapades, but no one else seemed to give a second glance. So,....
The Fountains of the Italian Garden were amazing, consisting of a small central fountain and four octagonal cut-stone, oblong pools, each sporting its own fountain, water lilies, and various other water plants, as well as fish and ducklings.
Above is the Queen Victoria Statue and pool which stands before the entrance to Kensington Palace along the boulevard in Kensington Park.
The Kensington Palace formal gardens boast a wide array of meticulously maintained plantings surrounding a long rectangular pool bordered by broad natural stone paths.
Here, in July of 2013, the nearly placid waters of the pool reflect the clear sky and Kensington Palace and the planters and plants along its edge.
I look forward to soon sharing some of the stunning gardens and architecture we enjoyed in our too-short time in London.
Saturday, March 31, 2012
East Grand Rapids, MI Based Landscape Company: Omega Brick & Landscaping
A clear sense of spacial relationships, an eye for aesthetics, and the ability to balance art and the natural environment, enable me to transform your vision and goals for your property, into a private sanctuary, a peaceful gathering place, or fun resort.
Chilton wall for raised bed and sitting area.
Curved Steps and retaining wall - Grand Rapids, MI
Friday, October 14, 2011
Fall Projects - Lawn Health
Fall is a great time to improve the health of your lawn. Among the various projects that a home owner can do, or hire a professional to do, are dethatching, over-seeding, fertilizing and weed prevention.
Right now, I am going to recommend dethatching, a simple way to improve the health of your lawn. For those of you who mulch your leaves and grass clippings into your lawn, this is an important step in the care of your lawn. Mulching clippings is a great way to insulate your grass from excessive heat and cold as well as drought that can strain the lawn and open it up to disease and insect damage. Insects love to live in that thatch buildup. Even if you don't use a mulching system on your mower, you should take a look at your lawn to see if build up is occurring. Cut out a small plug of sod in several areas of your lawn. Pull them up a look to see if there is more than half an inch of clippings built up above the soil line. If there is, it is probably time to dethatch.
However, years of mulching can create buildup of thatch, which keeps water from penetrating easily. Additionally, for those of you who use insecticides and fertilizers, thatch build up can decrease their effectiveness by blocking the pathway to the root zone. When water, that can not drain properly, comes in contact with these chemicals, runoff occurs. Unnecessary runoff. If you have had trouble with ineffective fertilizer and insecticide applications, this may be your problem.
The goal of dethatching is to remove the thatch which prevents proper water and chemical penetration. Dethatching machines can be rented at most equipment rental stores. I just dethatched several acres of lawn for a client in Grand Rapids. The machine cost $90.00 for a 24 hour rental. I completed the dethatching in about six hours. Not your typical yard. Using a rake, gas powered blower, and a zero turn lawn mower, I removed approximately fifteen yards of old thatch from the lawn. That's seven and a half mounded pickup trucks full. It took me twelve hours to accomplish this.
Most of you won't have such a large project on your hands. One to two hours (maybe) using the dethatcher and another hour of raking would probably do the trick. Rent the machine for under $50.00. Operation of the dethatcher is simple. If you can mow, you can dethatch. For those of you who have a tiny yard, or don't want to spend the money, but have the time, inclination, and strength to do it, you can buy a dethatching rake to do this project.
Once you have finished dethatching your lawn, including raking up the clippings and composting or otherwise disposing of the product, you can move on to overseeding, fertilizing and weed control. Tenacity, one of the newest weed control products out there, can be applied at the same time you are overseeding/seeding and still effectively control post- and pre-emergent weeds according to Syngenta. Check it out: http://www.greencastonline.com/TenacityHerbicide/index.aspx. I'll be testing that product claim this fall and next spring to let you know how it works out.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Disciplines of Landscape Design
Landscape Design encompasses several disciplines necessary to achieve a satisfactory result (end product). Landscape Design requires some measure of insight into each of these. Among these disciplines are Aesthetics, Horticulture, Architecture and Psychology.
A practical understanding of Aesthetics or art, when combined with the other disciplines, will enable you to envision the overall layout of your landscape. Additionally, an eye for art allows you to combine various elements of the landscape into a cohesive and flowing design.
Great landscape designers take much of their sense of garden aesthetic from natural landscapes. I encourage you to find and explore areas untouched by the ever encroaching hand of man. God is the greatest landscape architect. Let His creation guide your design. Combinations of color and texture, the mix of beauty that touch your various senses in the wild can be included in a smaller scale in your own landscape.
Horticultural knowledge encompasses a wide range of disciplines but in short it is the science of plants. What plants go where and what conditions each plant requires for optimum growth. How are plants affected by pests, soil conditions, light and water and temperature? How do plants react to pruning and fertilizers? And so on.
Additionally, a basic knowledge of architecture helps us frame the landscape. It helps us determine what hardscapes such as walkways, patios, gazebos, outbuildings, etc., need to be included in our landscape to make it habitable and useful for our defined purposes. Keep in mind, how the landscape will be used. Who will be using the area? How will it be accessed? What is topography of the land? What kind of walls or slopes will be included in the landscape?
How will various areas interconnect and interact?
A general knowledge of psychology is within the grasp of most people. While designing your landscape, you should think about how you would like to use the area(s)? Everything you include in the landscape should contribute to your usage goals. Will the area be used for meetings or family gatherings? Are you trying to create an atmosphere of action or relaxation, an aura of anticipation or peacefulness? Do you intend to exude intimacy or openness with your landscape? As with the interior of your home or business, how the various elements combine and contrast affects the mood and ambiance of your landscape.
Once you have determined what your landscape is meant to accomplish in your life, a knowledge of psychology will help you frame and fill your gardens and landscape with elements that will enhance your intended experiences. How does a particular choice of paving material affect the speed at which you move through your gardens? Do certain elements draw you in? How do certain plants or arrangements affect our mood or the moods of those who experience our landscape? Will a certain water feature distract from or enhance the purposes you envision?
A practical understanding of Aesthetics or art, when combined with the other disciplines, will enable you to envision the overall layout of your landscape. Additionally, an eye for art allows you to combine various elements of the landscape into a cohesive and flowing design.
Great landscape designers take much of their sense of garden aesthetic from natural landscapes. I encourage you to find and explore areas untouched by the ever encroaching hand of man. God is the greatest landscape architect. Let His creation guide your design. Combinations of color and texture, the mix of beauty that touch your various senses in the wild can be included in a smaller scale in your own landscape.
Horticultural knowledge encompasses a wide range of disciplines but in short it is the science of plants. What plants go where and what conditions each plant requires for optimum growth. How are plants affected by pests, soil conditions, light and water and temperature? How do plants react to pruning and fertilizers? And so on.
Additionally, a basic knowledge of architecture helps us frame the landscape. It helps us determine what hardscapes such as walkways, patios, gazebos, outbuildings, etc., need to be included in our landscape to make it habitable and useful for our defined purposes. Keep in mind, how the landscape will be used. Who will be using the area? How will it be accessed? What is topography of the land? What kind of walls or slopes will be included in the landscape?
How will various areas interconnect and interact?
A general knowledge of psychology is within the grasp of most people. While designing your landscape, you should think about how you would like to use the area(s)? Everything you include in the landscape should contribute to your usage goals. Will the area be used for meetings or family gatherings? Are you trying to create an atmosphere of action or relaxation, an aura of anticipation or peacefulness? Do you intend to exude intimacy or openness with your landscape? As with the interior of your home or business, how the various elements combine and contrast affects the mood and ambiance of your landscape.
Once you have determined what your landscape is meant to accomplish in your life, a knowledge of psychology will help you frame and fill your gardens and landscape with elements that will enhance your intended experiences. How does a particular choice of paving material affect the speed at which you move through your gardens? Do certain elements draw you in? How do certain plants or arrangements affect our mood or the moods of those who experience our landscape? Will a certain water feature distract from or enhance the purposes you envision?
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Sustainable Lawn Care: Stewardship
Sometimes, grass is not the answer. Here in West Michigan, many homes are located on heavily wooded lots. Little sun ever filters down to the ground. This means it is always a struggle in some areas to keep that grass growing. Most lawns need a minimum of three hours of direct sunlight to remain lush and sustainable. If you don't get enough light, there really are only two remedies: prune the trees to allow enough light to get down to the lawn, or forget about your traditional lawn.
It is not always feasible or desirable to prune those shade trees. Get rid of the shade, and you lose
some of the character of the lot you loved so much in the first place. Also, remember, even if you raise the tree canopy, you might have to deal with tree roots. Trees are very thirsty. Lawns that must compete with trees for water and nutrients require extra watering and nutrients to keep them healthy.
If you don't mind getting rid of some of those trees, (they are not always desirable), keep in mind, there tends to be a considerable amount of cost, either in labor or dollars. If you decide you can stand to lose some of those trees and you can afford the expense, make sure you choose a tree service company with the necessary experience to safely remove your trees. Not everyone with a chainsaw is skilled enough to remove trees located near your home or electrical/phone wires around your home.
If you decide, "this lawn is not worth the effort", there are several alternatives to be explored. I will briefly mention them here and expound later.
First, and perhaps most obvious: groundcovers such as Myrtle or Pachysandra. These are very low maintenance plants that can grow densely in both sun and shade. Once they mature, they tend to choke out most weeds, and so keep a very nice carpet like appearance. Downside: you can't really walk through the area anymore. These plants grow six to twelve inches high and make traversing somewhat difficult. Certainly, not desirable on a regular basis.
Second, there are lower growing groundcovers, sometimes called "Steppables". Among these are Irish and Scotch Moss as well as low-growing sedums. These also give a carpet like appearance to your former lawn areas, and allow a bit more access to the area than do Myrtle and Pachysandra. Keep in mind: the "Steppables" have their limits. If you expect significant foot traffic through these areas, stepping stones will be necessary to keep feet off the plants and directed through the area to limit plant disturbance or damage. In addition, not all of these groundcovers can be grown in the shade. Carefully research the various groundcovers before choosing the one for you particular needs. For a fairly exhaustive list of low-growing ground covers go to www.stepables.com
Third, you may want to consider installing mixed gardens. Mixed gardens combine various types of plants, i.e. perennials, shrubs, groundcovers, trees and annuals. Again, if there tends to be significant foot traffic through the areas, install paths to keep those feet off the plants.
Fourth, consider putting in a brick or stone patio. Though a project like this is significantly more expensive and/or time consuming, it does add to the enjoyment of the outdoors by creating a space in which to enjoy your gardens and woodland. In addition, properly installed patios add value to your property that lawns, gardens and groundcovers never can.
It is not always feasible or desirable to prune those shade trees. Get rid of the shade, and you lose
If you don't mind getting rid of some of those trees, (they are not always desirable), keep in mind, there tends to be a considerable amount of cost, either in labor or dollars. If you decide you can stand to lose some of those trees and you can afford the expense, make sure you choose a tree service company with the necessary experience to safely remove your trees. Not everyone with a chainsaw is skilled enough to remove trees located near your home or electrical/phone wires around your home.
If you decide, "this lawn is not worth the effort", there are several alternatives to be explored. I will briefly mention them here and expound later.
Second, there are lower growing groundcovers, sometimes called "Steppables". Among these are Irish and Scotch Moss as well as low-growing sedums. These also give a carpet like appearance to your former lawn areas, and allow a bit more access to the area than do Myrtle and Pachysandra. Keep in mind: the "Steppables" have their limits. If you expect significant foot traffic through these areas, stepping stones will be necessary to keep feet off the plants and directed through the area to limit plant disturbance or damage. In addition, not all of these groundcovers can be grown in the shade. Carefully research the various groundcovers before choosing the one for you particular needs. For a fairly exhaustive list of low-growing ground covers go to www.stepables.com
Third, you may want to consider installing mixed gardens. Mixed gardens combine various types of plants, i.e. perennials, shrubs, groundcovers, trees and annuals. Again, if there tends to be significant foot traffic through the areas, install paths to keep those feet off the plants.
Fourth, consider putting in a brick or stone patio. Though a project like this is significantly more expensive and/or time consuming, it does add to the enjoyment of the outdoors by creating a space in which to enjoy your gardens and woodland. In addition, properly installed patios add value to your property that lawns, gardens and groundcovers never can.
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