Showing posts with label Midwest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Midwest. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2014

How To Build Dry Stacked Natural Stone Retaining Walls


Dry Stacked Natural Stone Retaining Walls

Purchasing Your Boulders/Wall Stone: 

When looking for natural stone for your future retaining wall, first search for “gravel pits” in your area. Because they are in the excavation business, they have access to the many boulders buried in their pits, often setting them aside for sale to landscapers (or other consumers in the know). Keep in mind, however, the machines they use are extremely large and therefore unfit for loading boulders into your truck or trailer. Because of this, you will find it necessary to either load them by hand (which can be very difficult because of their shear weight and awkwardness) or you will need to rent a small loader.  If you rent a loader to load the boulders, you will have to unload them by hand at the jobsite. This too can be difficult if you do not have a dump truck or trailer. However, with patience and the proper tools, you can do it this way and save yourself a lot of money. 

Stone Yards are another option. These are very popular for several reasons: First, they can save you a lot of time and labor. Stone yards can load the boulders for you if you have an open-bed vehicle. Also, stone yards generally offer delivery. Second, stone yards have access to a wide selection of stone from all over the country. The best yards can obtain stone from all over the world. However, with selection comes increased price. Stone yards sell stone significantly higher than gravel pits. They probably purchase their boulders from gravel pits and must recover the cost of shipping the stone from the pit to their own site. Not a cheap thing to do.

Depending on your location, you may be able to save even more money by scamming fieldstone from fields in the area. Especially keep in mind any farms or ranches you may have seen while driving around lately. Farmers often have large piles of boulders moved aside while preparing their fields for planting. Before you make off with any boulders, make sure you get permission from the owner of the property from which you intend to "pilfer".


Choosing the Right Stone For Your Dry Stacked Stone Wall Project:
Types of Natural Stone Available for Retaining Walls
Weight and Dimension:

It is essential, when choosing your rocks, to keep a few things in mind. You may think my first recommendation is obvious, but it must be said. It is easy to find boulders you love at the stone yard only to discover when you get them to your site you can’t budge them. So, plan ahead. Know how you intend to manipulate your boulders once they’re home. Don’t choose boulders that you cannot move. That does not mean you must be able to pick them up. However, you must determine your ability to access and use the tools necessary for the project. (I will take you through some of the many options available, and how to utilize those later).
Because stone density varies due to composition, it is impossible to give you precise weights per boulder or square face foot. Nevertheless, I have taken the time to give you some estimates based on my experience and those of other professionals. Below are estimates of weight based on dimension for various regions and rock type:
*Face feet assumes average thickness of the wall is 18".  Actual thickness will affect Face Feet.
*The List Below is stone readily available in Michigan:
Region                          Rock Type                    Estimated Weight                       Pounds/Face Foot
Pennsylvania/NY         Bluestone                      162.5 pounds/cubic foot             243.75 lb/face foot
Wisconson                   Chilton                          168 pounds/cubic foot                252.00 lb/face foot
Wisconson                   Fon Du Loc                   162 pounds/cubic foot                243.00 lb/face foot
Mid West                     Granite                          160 pounds/ cubic foot               240.00 lb/face foot
Michigan                     Michigan Fieldstone     170 pounds/per cubic foot          255.00 lb/ face foot
Michigan                     Michigan Limestone     155 pounds per cubic foot          132.50 lb/ face foot
Canada                        Canadian Limestone      165 pounds per cubic foot          247.50 lb/face foot
Michigan                     Grindstone                     136 pounds per cubic foot          204.00 lb/face foot

The Right-Size Wall Stone for Your Project

Building Stone: Different natural stone wall projects call for different size stone. For the sake of stability, use the largest boulders you can handle.  Retaining walls under two feet tall can be built using 10-18” boulders. Vary the sizes and shapes in order to give it a more natural look. Larger walls should be built using 18”-36” boulders. Boulders over 24” will probably require a machine to install.

Small Boulder Retaining Walls and  Rosetta Dimensional Steps
Shims: Whatever the size of the boulders you intend to use always keep some smaller angular stones handy for use as shims. Shims are used to increase contact between rock surfaces and thus improve stability. They can also help stablize rocks that rock.  Use a sledge hammer to set any shims that will be filling spaces between boulders.

If the soil at your sight is rich in either clay or humus, you will need crushed stone and rubble for backfill. Proper backfill improves drainage and keeps frost heave (a problem in cold northern parts of the county) from shoving boulders out of your wall. 

Building Your Retaining Wall

Before you do anything else, locate any underground utilities. Most municipalities have programs set up to provide free or inexpensive utility location. Give them a call. In Michigan you need to call MISS DIG. Next, mark out the base of your retaining wall using spray paint. Make sure you keep in mind the set back. Allow for a minimum of 1 inch set back per 12 inches of height. For walls over five feet, set back should be 1.5” per ten inches of height.  Once you have marked out the front of your wall, begin digging a trench approximately 1 ½ times the depth and 2x the thickness of your average wall stone.  Dig 6-12” in front of face of the wall.  Boulder Walls can be built by simply digging individual stones into the soil so they sit about 1/3 of the total height into the ground.

Chilton Dry-Stacked Retaining Wall
If you are using stacked  stone such as Chilton or Bluestone, it will be necessary to dig at least six inches deeper than the average thickness of your stones.  This will allow for a compacted "chips n dust" or crushed concrete base.  You will need to dig your trench  wide enough to allow for a minimum of 6 inches in front, and 6 inches behind the wall's base layer.   Thus, if your average wall stones are one (1) foot wide, front to back, you will dig your trench 2' wide.  Doing this will ensure a stable base and keep your stones from sinking or tipping forward or backward.  

To learn more about my services and begin planning your professionally designed and installed retaining wall project,
Call or Text Brent NOW
(616) 328-3258.

Brent Langley in East Grand Rapids, MI on Houzz

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Severe Winter Hits Honey Bee Population Hard: Plants to Help Honey Bees

Last month a guest on NPR discussed the severe drop in the Honey Bee population over this winter due to the severe weather.  Record low temperatures and high snowfall in the midwest along with reduced food sources resulted in bees starving and freezing. 

This year's decline, combined with a yearly decrease in the honey bee population of approximately 30%  for the past decade could have a devastating economic affect on the Midwest.  There are multiple contributers to the bee problems Michigan is facing, among which are: seasonal food shortages, Colony Collapse Disorder, changes in weather patterns, and improper use of insecticides.

Because Michigan is among the top five states for commercial beekeeping operations and the state relies on bees to pollinate 50% of its crops, this should concern everyone.  Bee pollinated crops account for over over $1 billion in sales in Michigan alone, in addition to the $7.4 million in honey production in 2009 (http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/using_honey_bees_for_fruit_pollination).  This issue is of both financial and ecological concern to everyone living in Michigan, the Midwest, and anyone relying on crops produced here.

Among the crops pollinated by honey bees in the Grand Rapids, MI area are blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin, asparagus, alfalfa, apples, onions.... MSU publication Using honey bees for fruit pollination identifies seventeen crops pollinated by these insects.

In order to bolster the honey bee population, landscape designs should include plants that help tide bees over during the crop "off season".  The following is a list of trees, shrubs, and perennials that can be purchased in Grand Rapids, MI, and grown in your home landscape to encourage establishment and survival of honey bee colonies in your area.  Included are approximate dates during which honey bees forage these plants (information derived from numerous sources including: http://www.ginlc.org/education/bee_friendly_plants.htm and http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/honey-plants.html and http://saginawbees.org/honeyplants.html and http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder).
 
Trees Attractive to Honey Bees
Acer rubrum 'Autumn Blaze' (Red Maple): March-April
Salix melanostachys (Pussywillow): March - April
Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy' (Redbud): April
Prunus 'Snofozam' (Snow Fountain Cherry): April
Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' (Sumac): April-May
Malus 'Prairifire' (Apple): Late April - Late May
Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree): May-June
Tilia americana (Linden/Basswood): June

Garden Perennials Attractive to Honey Bees
Crocus: March-April


Phlox subulata (Creeping Phlox): April-May
Alyssum saxatile ‘Compactum’ (Perennial Alyssum): April-May
Aubrieta x cultorum ‘White Wall Gem’(Rock Cress): Late April-May
Ligularia stenocephala 'Little Rocket': late April to Late May
Nepta x faassenii ‘Walker's Low’ (Cat Mint): April-September


Leucanthemum x superbum 'Snowcap' (Shasta Daisy):
Allium 'Globemaster': May through June
Lychnis viscaria ‘Firebird’ (Catchfly): May-June
Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm): May-June
Trifolium (Clover): Late May-Late June
Thymus serpyllum ‘Magic Carpet’ (Mother of Thyme): May-August



Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ (Sage): May-August


Lavandula angustifolia (Lavander): June-August
Lupinus 'Gallery' (Dwarf Lupine): June-August
Malva sylvestris ‘Zebrina’ (Malva): June-August


Gaillardia aristata ‘Burgundy’ (Gaillardia): June-September
Echinacea 'Pixie Meadowbrite' (Purple Coneflower): June-October
Monarda 'Cambridge Scarlet' (Bee Balm): July-August
Allium senexcens subsp montanum Mountain Garlic: July-August


Achillea millefolium 'Moonshine' (Yarrow): July-September
Agastache foeniculum (Anise – Hyssop): Early July-Mid September
Eupatorium pupureum ‘Joe Pye Weed’: July-September


Rudbeckia hirta ‘Goldsturm’ (Black Eye Susan): July-October
Pervoskia atriplicifolia 'Little Spire' (Russian Sage): August-September


Echinops ritro (Blue Globe Thistle): July-August

Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (Stone Crop): August-October
Anemone tomentosa 'Robustissima' (Robust Windflower): Sept-Oct
Aster oblongifolius 'October Skies' (Aromatic Aster): Early September-October
 
 
Annuals Attractive to Honey Bees
Snap Dragon
Nasturtium

 
Natives Attractive to Honey Bees



Zizia aurea (Golden Alexanders): April-July
Physocarpus opulifolius (Common Ninebark): May-July


Veronicastrum virginicum (Culver's Root): May-August
Monarda punctata (Horsemint/Spotted Beebalm): June-July
Ratibida pinnata (Yellow Coneflower): June-August
Allium cernuum (Nodding Wild Onion): June-August
Spiraea alba (Meadowsweet): June-August
Vernonia missurica (Missouri ironweed): July-August
Asclepias incarnata (Swamp Milkweed): July-August

Scrophularia marilandica (Late Figwort): July-September

Cacalia atriplicifolia (Pale Indian plantain): July-August
Silphium perfoliatum (Cup Plant): July-September
Agastache nepetoides (Yellow Giant Hyssop): July-September
Eupatorium perfoliatum (Boneset): July-September
Lobelia siphilitica (Blue Lobelia): July-September
Helianthus strumosus (Pale-leaved Sunflower): July-September
Aster novae-angliae (New England aster): August-September
Solidago riddellii (Riddell's goldenrod): September-October
Aster laevis (Smooth Aster): September-October
Sambucus canadensis (American elder): June-July
Prunus spp. (Wild Cherry): March
Aronia melanocarpa (Black Chokecherry): May
Cornus amomum (Silky Dogwood): May-June


Pictures of these plants will be added as they are taken. All pictures are originals by Brent Langley.

If you are interested in adding some of these plants to your landscape or garden, and would like some help with design and/or procurement,  feel free to call Brent Langley at (616) 328-3258.