Landscape Design encompasses several disciplines necessary to achieve a satisfactory result (end product). Landscape Design requires some measure of insight into each of these. Among these disciplines are Aesthetics, Horticulture, Architecture and Psychology.
A practical understanding of Aesthetics or art, when combined with the other disciplines, will enable you to envision the overall layout of your landscape. Additionally, an eye for art allows you to combine various elements of the landscape into a cohesive and flowing design.
Great landscape designers take much of their sense of garden aesthetic from natural landscapes. I encourage you to find and explore areas untouched by the ever encroaching hand of man. God is the greatest landscape architect. Let His creation guide your design. Combinations of color and texture, the mix of beauty that touch your various senses in the wild can be included in a smaller scale in your own landscape.
Horticultural knowledge encompasses a wide range of disciplines but in short it is the science of plants. What plants go where and what conditions each plant requires for optimum growth. How are plants affected by pests, soil conditions, light and water and temperature? How do plants react to pruning and fertilizers? And so on.
Additionally, a basic knowledge of architecture helps us frame the landscape. It helps us determine what hardscapes such as walkways, patios, gazebos, outbuildings, etc., need to be included in our landscape to make it habitable and useful for our defined purposes. Keep in mind, how the landscape will be used. Who will be using the area? How will it be accessed? What is topography of the land? What kind of walls or slopes will be included in the landscape?
How will various areas interconnect and interact?
A general knowledge of psychology is within the grasp of most people. While designing your landscape, you should think about how you would like to use the area(s)? Everything you include in the landscape should contribute to your usage goals. Will the area be used for meetings or family gatherings? Are you trying to create an atmosphere of action or relaxation, an aura of anticipation or peacefulness? Do you intend to exude intimacy or openness with your landscape? As with the interior of your home or business, how the various elements combine and contrast affects the mood and ambiance of your landscape.
Once you have determined what your landscape is meant to accomplish in your life, a knowledge of psychology will help you frame and fill your gardens and landscape with elements that will enhance your intended experiences. How does a particular choice of paving material affect the speed at which you move through your gardens? Do certain elements draw you in? How do certain plants or arrangements affect our mood or the moods of those who experience our landscape? Will a certain water feature distract from or enhance the purposes you envision?
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Brickwork: Making a Lasting Impression
I cannot tell you how many times I've been called to a home to consult a client on repairing their brick walkway or patio. It is not unusual to see brick pavers that have shifted away from their original position by one, two, even three inches. Multiply that by the number of joints in a project, and you can see how dangerous, and down right ugly this could get.
Shifting patios inevitably result from two major mistakes with the initial installation. First, the project was probably laid without a proper base. It is not uncommon for pavers to be laid on a one or two inch sand base. That's probably OK of the first few months, but come winter up here in Michigan, the ground starts freezing and thawing and heaving. The problem is that sand doesn't retain its original position, so when the sand shifts, so do the bricks. Never lay a brick/paver walkway or patio only on sand!
The second problem: no edging. Without some type of edging, the bricks can shift outward. When this happens, the bond between the bricks loosens and causes the general structure of the walkway or patio to fail.
In areas prone to harsh/cold winters, it is essential to start your project with a proper foundation. This means digging approximately seven inches deep for areas receiving only pedestrian traffic or ten to twelve inches deep for areas receiving vehicular traffic. In addition, you must dig approximately four to six inches beyond the area of what will be your finished patio. Thus, if you intend to make a patio that is twelve feet wide, you will dig the hole thirteen feet wide, six inches wider on either side of the patio.
Crushed Concrete
Pedestrian Area:
Area square feet/27 cubic feet/3 * 1.10 * 1.4 tons = total tons of gravel/crushed concrete
Vehicular Area:
Area square feet/27 cubic feet / 2 * 1.10 * 1.4 tons = total tons of gravel/crushed concrete
Dump and spread the gravel/crushed concrete to half of its final depth, two inches for pedestrian area, three inches for vehicular area. Spread as evenly as possible. Don't worry about leveling perfectly.
21AA Road Gravel
Shifting patios inevitably result from two major mistakes with the initial installation. First, the project was probably laid without a proper base. It is not uncommon for pavers to be laid on a one or two inch sand base. That's probably OK of the first few months, but come winter up here in Michigan, the ground starts freezing and thawing and heaving. The problem is that sand doesn't retain its original position, so when the sand shifts, so do the bricks. Never lay a brick/paver walkway or patio only on sand!
The second problem: no edging. Without some type of edging, the bricks can shift outward. When this happens, the bond between the bricks loosens and causes the general structure of the walkway or patio to fail.
In areas prone to harsh/cold winters, it is essential to start your project with a proper foundation. This means digging approximately seven inches deep for areas receiving only pedestrian traffic or ten to twelve inches deep for areas receiving vehicular traffic. In addition, you must dig approximately four to six inches beyond the area of what will be your finished patio. Thus, if you intend to make a patio that is twelve feet wide, you will dig the hole thirteen feet wide, six inches wider on either side of the patio.
Next, order crushed concrete or gravel to fill four inches deep for a pedestrian area, and six inches deep for a vehicular area. To figure out how much crushed concrete or gravel you need to order, use this formula:
Crushed Concrete
Pedestrian Area:
Area square feet/27 cubic feet/3 * 1.10 * 1.4 tons = total tons of gravel/crushed concrete
Vehicular Area:
Area square feet/27 cubic feet / 2 * 1.10 * 1.4 tons = total tons of gravel/crushed concrete
Dump and spread the gravel/crushed concrete to half of its final depth, two inches for pedestrian area, three inches for vehicular area. Spread as evenly as possible. Don't worry about leveling perfectly.
21AA Road Gravel
Compact using a tamper or plate compactor. I would advise you to use a plate compactor whenever possible. Plate compactors compact more thoroughly and more quickly. They also save you a lot of labor. Believe me, after using a tamper for half an hour, you will feel sore for days. If you do use a plate compactor, you will still have to tamp some edges by hand. You can never get into every nook and cranny with a plate compactor. Failure to compact all of the base will result in eventual collapse of the improperly compacted area.
Once you have finished compacting the first layer, add the remaining crushed concrete or gravel, this time take your time to get the area leveled. If the paver patio or walkway will be against a structure, you will want to ensure proper drainage by sloping the gravel away from the structure.
Half an inch slope for every four feet of distance is plenty.
Once level, compact again. Don't forget to get into those corners. You will probably have to rake and shovel to get the proper slope/level. Get this level as close to perfect as possible.
Now you have your completed base.
Take a can of spray paint and mark out where you would like the edge of your finished patio/walkway. Don't forget, you need to leave four to six inches of compacted crushed concrete/gravel around the outside of your patio. Step back. Take a look from several different places. Try to envision how the patio will look once it is finished. Make sure your lines mesh with your vision. Cross out the lines if you don't like the look. Try again until it looks just right.
Now, time to install that edging. I generally use a plastic or aluminum edging, staked in place with ten or twelve inch spikes. I prefer to be on the safe side and use approximately five spikes for every eight linear feet of edging. This way, the edging tends to shift less. Run the edging along the outside of the line you just made. Brick restraint edging is generally "L" shaped. Face the horizontal part of the edging outward, away from where the bricks will go. Spike the edging in as you go. Remember, you don't need to put edging along any hard edges such as a structure, concrete or asphalt driveways, or sideways.
I have occasionally used landscape ties as edging. However, this only works for straight-edged areas, and the wood tends to rot rather quickly, usually within five to ten years. That means, you have to replace the edging eventually, thus disturbing the brickwork. Not really worth it in my opinion.
I have seen poured concrete curbs used as edging. Again, I think you are looking at a lot more work than its worth. Like most poured concrete, a concrete curb is inflexible. Therefore, if you do not put in a proper base and pour deep enough (i.e. below the frost line which could be 18" or more), you will eventually end up with cracked concrete. Just like those driveways you see all over Michigan. You don't want to replace that and mess up your brickwork. Stick with aluminum or plastic brick restraint. It will last as long as your brickwork so you won't have to replace it.
Once you have finished compacting the first layer, add the remaining crushed concrete or gravel, this time take your time to get the area leveled. If the paver patio or walkway will be against a structure, you will want to ensure proper drainage by sloping the gravel away from the structure.
Half an inch slope for every four feet of distance is plenty.
Once level, compact again. Don't forget to get into those corners. You will probably have to rake and shovel to get the proper slope/level. Get this level as close to perfect as possible.
Now you have your completed base.
Take a can of spray paint and mark out where you would like the edge of your finished patio/walkway. Don't forget, you need to leave four to six inches of compacted crushed concrete/gravel around the outside of your patio. Step back. Take a look from several different places. Try to envision how the patio will look once it is finished. Make sure your lines mesh with your vision. Cross out the lines if you don't like the look. Try again until it looks just right.
Now, time to install that edging. I generally use a plastic or aluminum edging, staked in place with ten or twelve inch spikes. I prefer to be on the safe side and use approximately five spikes for every eight linear feet of edging. This way, the edging tends to shift less. Run the edging along the outside of the line you just made. Brick restraint edging is generally "L" shaped. Face the horizontal part of the edging outward, away from where the bricks will go. Spike the edging in as you go. Remember, you don't need to put edging along any hard edges such as a structure, concrete or asphalt driveways, or sideways.
I have occasionally used landscape ties as edging. However, this only works for straight-edged areas, and the wood tends to rot rather quickly, usually within five to ten years. That means, you have to replace the edging eventually, thus disturbing the brickwork. Not really worth it in my opinion.
I have seen poured concrete curbs used as edging. Again, I think you are looking at a lot more work than its worth. Like most poured concrete, a concrete curb is inflexible. Therefore, if you do not put in a proper base and pour deep enough (i.e. below the frost line which could be 18" or more), you will eventually end up with cracked concrete. Just like those driveways you see all over Michigan. You don't want to replace that and mess up your brickwork. Stick with aluminum or plastic brick restraint. It will last as long as your brickwork so you won't have to replace it.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
The Art of Building Stone Patios
People often marvel at the intricacy natural stone patios exhibit. They are especially amazed as they watch a pallet of flagstone transform into a work of art. "I could never do that," seems to be the mantra of most people. I tell them, it is much like putting together a puzzle, only the pieces don't have predetermined positions. Each piece must be placed according to the vision of the builder. Not everyone has the patience and eye to put together a puzzle as complex and physically demanding as a flagstone patio Not to say you shouldn't try. If you are capable of and you enjoy putting together puzzles, by all means, give it a try. 
Perhaps it is more accurate to say that creating a stone patio is akin to creating a work of art. It takes an eye for form and color, texture and flow. Like any art, there is also a measure of skill involved. Great artists seldom lift a paint brush and create a masterpiece on their first try. Practice and patience is required. Likewise, becoming a skilled and proficient stone artisan/craftsman often takes years. And it definitely takes patience.
When I first began building stone patios, walkways, and walls, it was not unusual for me to begin a section, spend several hours placing and setting the flagstones, only to realize, after stepping back and taking a break, that the pieces just didn't gel. Too many small pieces in one area. Too much of one shape or texture or color in another. One must always keep an eye on the "big picture". Remember, your art is often viewed from a distance. Few people get down on their hands and knees to look at your work, so step back and see how things look from different points of view.
Keep your eye on the goal. When you are sore and tired, keep your vision in mind. You are striving to create a work of art, a lasting creation that can be enjoyed for many years to come. This is a task that requires patience and skill as well as inspiration. So, it you start to get tired, or frustrated, step away for a while and come back when you are rested and ready to invest yourself again. Conversely, if you are on a streak. Don't stop, its during these times of inspiration, that the greatest art is created.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Landscape Design: Harmony
Harmony in the landscape refers to the way in which various elements in the landscape are organized to create a sense of unity or continuity within individual garden areas as well as between areas within the overall landscape. There are many elements that can be used to create harmony within a landscape. Each element adds a different dimension of unity and can be used in combination with the other elements to create an overall sense of harmony within the garden and landscape. Among these harmonizing elements, I would like to emphasis the following: Color Schemes, Repeated Hardscapes elements, Repeated Forms, and Green Spaces. Let’s look at some of these various elements in detail.
Color Schemes are probably the most easily identified harmonizing element in a landscape, and therefore the most habitually emphasized of these elements. Color Schemes usually rely on specific color combinations that can make or break a garden. For this reason color schemes must be chosen with care. However, the most exciting combinations are not always planned. Feel free to experiment with new partnerships. Choose an individual color or several contrasting or complimenting colors to be used throughout the landscape (see the color wheel).
Color partnerships can be separated into two categories: contrasting colors and complimentary colors. When contrasting colors are combined, they tend to draw attention to themselves through explosive relationship. Tension is created, heightening our senses and drawing our eyes to this place. By standing out, these dissonant color combinations further emphasis the more harmonic color combinations. Seizing our attention, these contrasting color combinations can highlight transition between two areas in the landscape. Beware: too many dissonant color combinations can destroy a garden. Our goal should then be to limit these contrasting color combinations in order to emphasis the overall unity of the garden or landscape.
It is easy to focus exclusively on flower color. However, flowers come and go. They blossom and fade with the seasons’ change. Foliage, however, is longer lasting and thus, perhaps, the more important producer of color choices in the landscape. I would, therefore, encourage you to try basing your color scheme on the foliage of one or more specimen plants. You may even consider the color found in other elements such boulders, tree and shrub bark, a garden sculpture or paver brick.
Hardscape elements repeated in the landscape can also draw together a disparate landscape. Thus, when you are dealing with various themes such as formal and informal areas or perennial and annual gardens, Consider using common hardscape elements such as stone or brick. Both of these can be used in a number of applications. For instance, granite can be used to create a very appealing patio or walkway as well as retaining walls. Perhaps you could use granite to create a unique water feature such as a fountain surrounded by granite pebbles.
Repeating a particular plant such as a Rhododendron or weeping Japanese Maple could also add another unifying element.
Try using Redwood or Cedar in both your fencing as well as your decking application. Match the brick in your front walkway to the brick on your house. It may be difficult to match the paving brick exactly, especially if your home is more than a couple of years old. However, there is almost always another brick that will coordinate with the existing house brick
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Sustainable Lawn Care: Stewardship
Sometimes, grass is not the answer. Here in West Michigan, many homes are located on heavily wooded lots. Little sun ever filters down to the ground. This means it is always a struggle in some areas to keep that grass growing. Most lawns need a minimum of three hours of direct sunlight to remain lush and sustainable. If you don't get enough light, there really are only two remedies: prune the trees to allow enough light to get down to the lawn, or forget about your traditional lawn.
It is not always feasible or desirable to prune those shade trees. Get rid of the shade, and you lose
some of the character of the lot you loved so much in the first place. Also, remember, even if you raise the tree canopy, you might have to deal with tree roots. Trees are very thirsty. Lawns that must compete with trees for water and nutrients require extra watering and nutrients to keep them healthy.
If you don't mind getting rid of some of those trees, (they are not always desirable), keep in mind, there tends to be a considerable amount of cost, either in labor or dollars. If you decide you can stand to lose some of those trees and you can afford the expense, make sure you choose a tree service company with the necessary experience to safely remove your trees. Not everyone with a chainsaw is skilled enough to remove trees located near your home or electrical/phone wires around your home.
If you decide, "this lawn is not worth the effort", there are several alternatives to be explored. I will briefly mention them here and expound later.
First, and perhaps most obvious: groundcovers such as Myrtle or Pachysandra. These are very low maintenance plants that can grow densely in both sun and shade. Once they mature, they tend to choke out most weeds, and so keep a very nice carpet like appearance. Downside: you can't really walk through the area anymore. These plants grow six to twelve inches high and make traversing somewhat difficult. Certainly, not desirable on a regular basis.
Second, there are lower growing groundcovers, sometimes called "Steppables". Among these are Irish and Scotch Moss as well as low-growing sedums. These also give a carpet like appearance to your former lawn areas, and allow a bit more access to the area than do Myrtle and Pachysandra. Keep in mind: the "Steppables" have their limits. If you expect significant foot traffic through these areas, stepping stones will be necessary to keep feet off the plants and directed through the area to limit plant disturbance or damage. In addition, not all of these groundcovers can be grown in the shade. Carefully research the various groundcovers before choosing the one for you particular needs. For a fairly exhaustive list of low-growing ground covers go to www.stepables.com
Third, you may want to consider installing mixed gardens. Mixed gardens combine various types of plants, i.e. perennials, shrubs, groundcovers, trees and annuals. Again, if there tends to be significant foot traffic through the areas, install paths to keep those feet off the plants.
Fourth, consider putting in a brick or stone patio. Though a project like this is significantly more expensive and/or time consuming, it does add to the enjoyment of the outdoors by creating a space in which to enjoy your gardens and woodland. In addition, properly installed patios add value to your property that lawns, gardens and groundcovers never can.
It is not always feasible or desirable to prune those shade trees. Get rid of the shade, and you lose
If you don't mind getting rid of some of those trees, (they are not always desirable), keep in mind, there tends to be a considerable amount of cost, either in labor or dollars. If you decide you can stand to lose some of those trees and you can afford the expense, make sure you choose a tree service company with the necessary experience to safely remove your trees. Not everyone with a chainsaw is skilled enough to remove trees located near your home or electrical/phone wires around your home.
If you decide, "this lawn is not worth the effort", there are several alternatives to be explored. I will briefly mention them here and expound later.
Second, there are lower growing groundcovers, sometimes called "Steppables". Among these are Irish and Scotch Moss as well as low-growing sedums. These also give a carpet like appearance to your former lawn areas, and allow a bit more access to the area than do Myrtle and Pachysandra. Keep in mind: the "Steppables" have their limits. If you expect significant foot traffic through these areas, stepping stones will be necessary to keep feet off the plants and directed through the area to limit plant disturbance or damage. In addition, not all of these groundcovers can be grown in the shade. Carefully research the various groundcovers before choosing the one for you particular needs. For a fairly exhaustive list of low-growing ground covers go to www.stepables.com
Third, you may want to consider installing mixed gardens. Mixed gardens combine various types of plants, i.e. perennials, shrubs, groundcovers, trees and annuals. Again, if there tends to be significant foot traffic through the areas, install paths to keep those feet off the plants.
Fourth, consider putting in a brick or stone patio. Though a project like this is significantly more expensive and/or time consuming, it does add to the enjoyment of the outdoors by creating a space in which to enjoy your gardens and woodland. In addition, properly installed patios add value to your property that lawns, gardens and groundcovers never can.
October: Planting Winter and Spring Blooming Bulbs
It's October.
The kids are back in school: first and fifth grade. The air is turning crisp. Hard to believe. It seems like I just laid down new mulch and prepping the gardens for the Spring. Now, its nearly time to start shutting them down.
But wait.
Not yet.
Let's start thinking about the Spring again.
The kids are back in school: first and fifth grade. The air is turning crisp. Hard to believe. It seems like I just laid down new mulch and prepping the gardens for the Spring. Now, its nearly time to start shutting them down.
But wait.
Not yet.
Let's start thinking about the Spring again.
If your landscape is like most I've seen, your gardens probably lack color in late winter and early Spring. The easiest but least utilized remedy: bulbs.
Now is the time to plant Winter and Spring blooming bulbs. Among the most popular are Narcissus, also known as Daffodil, Crocus, dwarf Iris, and Snowdrops.
For the most dramatic effect, plant bulbs in sweeping groups rather than scattered singly throughout the landscape. Plant bulbs among later blooming perennials. As these perennials begin to grow, they will help hide the bulbs' fading foliage.
For the most dramatic effect, plant bulbs in sweeping groups rather than scattered singly throughout the landscape. Plant bulbs among later blooming perennials. As these perennials begin to grow, they will help hide the bulbs' fading foliage.
By the way, don't be afraid to plant in wooded areas. Remember, those shade trees will be barren during Winter and Spring when these plants start coming up, so much more light will reach the woodland floor.
It's important to know how to properly plant these bulbs. So, I'll give you a few tips to get you started.
Generally, bulbs should be planted at a depth of three times their length. So, if you have a Daffadil one inch in length, plant it three inches deep. Too shallow, and it's likely to be pushed up by frost heavy, especially in northern regions that have harsh winters. Too deep, and you'll never see it bloom. But don't be overly nervous. This isn't difficult.
Like most plants, bulbs thrive in humus rich soil. Add a little compost or well composted manure to the soil as you fill the holes back in. Bulbs will spread and naturalize, especially in well-amended soil and woodland areas.
Generally, bulbs should be planted at a depth of three times their length. So, if you have a Daffadil one inch in length, plant it three inches deep. Too shallow, and it's likely to be pushed up by frost heavy, especially in northern regions that have harsh winters. Too deep, and you'll never see it bloom. But don't be overly nervous. This isn't difficult.
Like most plants, bulbs thrive in humus rich soil. Add a little compost or well composted manure to the soil as you fill the holes back in. Bulbs will spread and naturalize, especially in well-amended soil and woodland areas.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)